Member yukonal
MemberForum Replies Created
-
Welcome to the site! Good info to be had here, if you have questions.
-
.On this note, spend the money and buy a good one. Non digital… metal in construction and with an easy to read dial. Don't worry, it's money well spent as it's a lifetime purchase.
Sorry n.e., but I gotta disagree with you. I've been handloading for 30 years. I routinely builds loads for my rifles that shoot 1/4″ groups at 100 yards, and 2″ at 400 yards. I load for F-TR 600 yard competition and shoot moa or better every week with my handloads.
All these years with a digital caliper that cost under $50. And, like I said, this new one that cost under $40 is a better caliper.
I see NO need to spend over $100- $150 to get a high quality dial micrometer.
-
An hour from Lubbock. 31-1/2″
-
I have one of them exactly like that one on one of my Tikkas. They reduce recoil and muzzle jump considerably. And yes, I bought it from Brownell's and let my gunsmith do all the threading and fitting at his shop.
-
Thanks guys. What is a caliper used for? And what decides what a good one is?
The caliper will be your most used tool. You need one. If your kit doesn't come with one, right now Sinclair has their cheap one(digital) on sale for( 29, 36,39??? dollars–or something like that). I just bought it to go along with the one I've used for over 10 years. It's very good quality, and better than the one I have.
You will constantly be measuring empty cases, and loaded cases to check different measurements for sizing, and loading lengths and diameters. Also setting up your dies, and measuring loaded rounds for bullet seating depth. You WILL need one.
-
That's a stud. Just got mine back from the taxi yesterday.
-
Nice trophy. Mine ate alot more lead than yours… 😉
-
Looks like a good place to kill an Aoudad.
-
I have a VAIS muzzle brake on one of mine. Bought from Brownell's, and the gunsmith threaded the end of the barrel, and it screws on.
The ones you're talking about, that look like part of the barrel, are screwed onto threads the gunsmith cuts into your barrel, then contoured on a lathe to match the contour of your barrel at that junction. Here's a Vais brake threaded on to a #5 Kreiger.
-
Looks great. The B & C hasn't had the greatest reviews…
-
Looks like a cool little project. Great job!
-
I rarely use my tumbler. It should not be high on your priority list. Besides, Sinclair sells something called Wonder Cloth (?) or something like that. It really cleans up the brass…you just have to do it by hand. But, it's quiet! ;D
Get a good kit, and reading material or dvd's, and get started. I like both Hornady and RCBS. You can always ask questions once you get started. Good luck.
-
He looks wider than you! good job!!!
-
Welcome, simo.
Our own Jason from here, has some stuff in the works. I'm sure when he gets all the bugs worked out, he'll make them available.
-
Henry- my .223 Tikka sporter shoots 65 gr Sierra GameKings into 1 hole at 100, as it does with 50 gr Hornady V Max. Of course, these are handloads.
I've had a custom recoil lug built to replace the factory one, and TIG welded to the slot in the action, on 2 different Tikkas. Then Pillar and Glass bedded the actions. I don't really think it has improver the accuracy that much, if at all.
Now the NEW one…that's a different story. The new lug arrangement, along with other parts, have improved accuracy, performance, and feel, considerably. You'll get a look at it soon… 😉
