Member TXDarren
MemberForum Replies Created
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As I said, I won't share because it is borderline absolute max pressure. Why don't you work up loads. I use Hodgdon 4350 or slower, depending bullet weight…but I like 4350 so much, I will vary the charge to keep using it. Very good and very clean burning…
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Did you shoot the gun before modifying stock? If didn't get MOA before mod, then not after mod, it probably isn't the stock.
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You are an idiot and a LIAR! Give enough rope, and let them rant, they always mess up
Did I read here or your other rant that you cancelled your check? You sent a check, got 2 mags, then cancelled the check. So you STOLE 2 Waters mags? So you are a thief as well??? Scamming is disgraceful, yet you feel no shame or responsibility. Burn in hell.
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Dan is an idiot and a liar. Firstly, an idiot because he thinks shooters on this forum are stupid enough to believe this hateful crap. Second, a liar because he is now contradicting himself. Look at earlier post about idiot Dan said he was told but didn't really pay much attention to post cost, then his email says he was give 2 quotes with 1 post cost. LIAR! IDIOT! Burn in hell you Hillary loving, anti-gun moron.
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I had similar issue to a stiff bolt after firing. I found a burr in it. I smoothed it out and was fine. It was a long time ago, so can't recall exact details. But anyway, disassemble and have a look for burrs…
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You are saying, the firing pin dropped before removing the handle, and hard to get the spacer in. This is easy… Simply use a bench vice and grip the safety indicator tang. Hold the bolt body, and pull, then the twist the bolt body (which way depend which way facing but you'll work it out).
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Waters Rifleman makes a great single shot block…just push in and use. Give it a try.
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Yes, work fine in mine but I drive them very hard. I use Norma brass, and worked up a stiff load that I won't share, because charge will fluctuate with amb temp…
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The material the brake is made out of makes a difference. Problem with 1/2″ threads is they cut away so much material. If take the brake off, that tip can be red hot after a few firings. So you need a good muzzle cap to dissipate heat adequately. The thread should be AS BIG AS POSSIBLE to keep as much barrel material there. I use Aluminum brakes to help reduce recoil (obviously) and to help remove heat from the barrel – being the thinnest end of the barrel – normally.
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The biggest problem with 6.5×55 is the horrible case design. You'll be trimming brass after only a couple of firings…if you are fussy about brass length (like I am).
The 6.5 Creedmoor is far superior to the 6.5×55 but when the bullet is launched, does it really prove a cartridge holding the powder did a better job or not?
The 6.5 Creedmoor is well marketed. And, it's reloading gear is at a premium. A 260 will do a great job, has great aftermarket products for it, and is great to shoot…with most reloading equipment a lot cheaper.
Sure. but the 6.5 Creedmoor, but only because you want to, not because it is “better”.
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So, you were blatantly rude to Waters because of YOUR mistakes and because you were too cheap to pay for a decent delivery service. And, being such a hot shot expert at sales, you believe “customer service” is Waters being in control of the postal service… Then you abused Waters because of your mistakes and because you lack patience. Please tell me your company so I never buy off them or you. I suppose you hate Trump and voted for Hillary last election, then sprout off about your Tikka? You are an idiot!
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Waters Rifleman does. They are great. I have 2 of them. never let me down. Bit expensive but i've paid for them with meat on the plate. Worth every cent. I am waiting for his new muzzle brake. I will buy a brake and get another 5 round mag from him.
