[Ericbc7]

I haven’t seen one in person of course, but it looks like it has some nice features.  I would hesitate to pay €950 without handling one first.

[Ericbc7]

Thanks, I will definitely run the details past Jason!

[Ericbc7]

The master sporter is a beautiful rifle.

[Ericbc7]

Hi Laker
You might have a tricky problem Installing the Kalix cheek rest in new T3X lites.  I don't have personal experience with the problem of removing the recoil pad mounting plate/grate. I believe the length of pull is adjusted by inserting spacers between that plate and the recoil pad which makes it likely that the plastic grate or mounting plate is glued into the stock by the foam in the normally hollow portion of the stock.  Can you see any clips or tabs that secure the mounting plate?  It seems likely that you should be able to remove enough of the stabilizing foam to fit the Kalix insert into the stock, but if it requires breaking the connection between the stock and mounting plate you would need to find a way to re-glue the mounting plate after you remove enough foam to install the cheek rest.
I would check the location of the cheek rest before you remove the mounting plate/grate since the template is probably not for The filled stocks and may locate the cheek rest holes too close to the receiver which might interfere with removing the bolt.  I would guess that the template should be placed to line up with the edge of the mounting plate that touches the recoil pad.  In other words if you proceed with this installation, place the template before you remove the recoil pad mounting plate.

this might be considered an “advanced” project and will almost certainly void the stock’s warranty but good luck!
Kalix Teknik seems to have a good website so hopefully their customer service can help you with this application.
Good luck!

I wish you luck on this installation, the product looks very useful.

[Ericbc7]

I know this is a bit late but…
I put rails on all my Tikka’s which lets me mount nearly any brand of rings and move scopes between rifles.
See mountain tactical for their picatinny rails.

With the rail, I usually get shorter rings than I might usually select since the rail adds some height to the base+ring equation.

[Ericbc7]

If you want to speed Barrel cooling, place the rifle (with action open) in a vertical position between strings.  The barrel will act like a chimney and draw cool air through the action.  Mine cool much faster on a calm day than when I leave the rifle on the bench.

At least it seems to – I haven’t measured things ?

The Creedmoor is pretty barrel friendly but shooting it while very hot will tend to wear the throat a bit more quickly than if you let it cool a bit between strings.

Enjoy your new rifle!

[Ericbc7]

The Waters’ mags are very nice and high quality.  They will work in factory bottom metal (plastic) with no modification.  If your Boyd’s stock is using the original bottom plastic it will work well.  You may want to look at replacing the factory bottom plastic with aftermarket bottom metal.

http://www.aihpa.com/Sponsor/Waters_Rifleman/WatersRifleman.htm

Good luck with the license process and congratulations on a fine rifle choice!

On another note, I was looking at the Boyd’s at one stock for my Tikka T1 and the sharp edges did not fit me comfortably.  Boyd’s has a new thumb-hole version of the At One that seems to be a bit more ergonomic but I have not held it yet.  You might want to check it out.

[Ericbc7]

I will say why I kind of strayed…
I was keen on accurate shooting and got enticed by the AR community…

I built an ar 308 style in 6.5 creedmoor that will shoot .35 at 100 yds. I also built a .223 Wilde that does ok and finally I built an awesome 300 blackout pistol using Thordsons recoil group that was so crazy fun with my 30 cal suppressor that I got lazy about the real important stuff which is accurate guns are interesting guns

Then Tikka came out with the rimfire and I saw it in Scheels in Fargo ND and bought the 17 hmr for cash.
I put it in a stock from my 6.5×55 sporter and will post picks because it is so pretty.

After the t-1 I got nostalgic about my time at Tikka.com and I regret I was gone so long
Feel free to contact me about questions I might be able to answer
Always remember … Tikka’s are great and may be the best value for dollar you can find… regardless of your application.
The link to the pic folows it is a pick of my Tikka T1 in my T3 Sporter stock that I had available because I hat the 6.5×55 original Tikka in a berserk stock.  I think I have the best looking Tikka T1 I have seen.

https://i.imgur.com/Kc46mmb.jpg

View post on imgur.com

[Ericbc7]

Hey Larkin, you are a stalwart for this site , I check in and regret not being available for timely questions.

I will try to attend more often because you attend always and it is unfair that you should feel the obligation to maintain this useful site.
-Eric

[Ericbc7]

Welcome my new friend!

[Ericbc7]

Awesome caliber, best of luck!

[Ericbc7]

You might try Andrea at 406.285.2371 office mgr
It’s Easter so I can’t be sure anyone is in office
These guys are good to work with and I’m sure they would have been in touch if they could

[Ericbc7]

Larkin, light strikes are hard to diagnose.  My 25-06 ruger was blowing primers on loads that made no sense
.  It turned out to be a defective – weak fireing spring.  The point is that my symptoms were blown primers and you might benifit from a new firing spring.

[Ericbc7]

I have never seen a tikka 25-06 in other than 1:10
I don’t claim to be right, just not intentionally wrong.
Good luck, and shoot light bullets.
My experience is with a ruger m77 old model in this caliber .  The 120s never shot well. The 75’s shot spectacular.

[Ericbc7]

Grs makes laminate drop in stocks and everyone loves them
I’m a bit biased since I’m Norwegian