Member Ericbc7
MemberForum Replies Created
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Fyi the 7mm mag is gonna kick like a mule in this light rifle, it will shoot under 1 moa in the right circumstances but unless you put a muzzle brake on it you will struggle to get its best accuracy.
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The best deals on factory ammo I have seen lately is Hornady 55 gr 50 packs. I saw these for $29 at Home of Economy (a ND farm & fleet store). I can't say the will shoot well, but 55 gr anything should do well in 1:10 twist.
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I am moly coating my 75 gr A-max as I type. I plan to use ww brass wolf primers and seating to 10thou off lands. Will do 100 yd load development as per Erik Cortina's advice on “accurate shooter” forum. Using Varget and new IMR 4166. I will keep you posted on my results.
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well i had to pass on the group buy, I console myself by repeating the mantra “debt is bad, debt is bad…”
its not helping much, but I would love to see your new Tikkas and accessories(and maybe some targets!).
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Sorry I have not insight into your needs, you might try the Ausie folks (Australia)
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whew doggy! nice shooting! soon as my range opens i will try to duplicate your results with my T3 Sporter 24″ 1:8 twist. Thanks so much for your info!
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hey Dog, very interested in your research but instead of talking about mag length loadings can you tell us how far off the lands we are talking about to get the 75 amax to shoot well? I for one will happily load one at time if needed to get best accuracy. I perhaps misunderstood the details and welcome help, unfortunately my range is off limits till spring.
edit:
Ah just saw your other post – srry still digesting the details. -
If you are in the U.S. Check out the group buy on this site!
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Any results Dog?
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Welcome!
Unfortunately, it has been a long time since I loaded for a 25-06, and I don't know the twist on Tikkas off hand. There are a lot of guys that have posted their favorite recipes on various forums. I would bet that the faster burning of the appropriate powders would work best in the relatively short T3-light barrels.
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Thanks Dog Down! For clarifying – I was one that took it wrong and I appologize.
Anyway back to the recoil issue, for sure the squishy limbsaver is the first step, but for anyone serious about reducing recoil, you MUST purchase some kind of muzzle brake. The cheapest is probably Witt Machine clamp on. The best is … I don't know lol. But threaded are way less likely to fail. Rest assured the noise will go up spectacularly! But that is why we buy hearing protection.
Edit: I have a Witt Machine brake on my T3 Hunter 30-06 and have no complaints yet!
Edit 2: I do have a complaint on Witt brakes… The screws they supplied me seemed to have soft heads and I stripped 2 of them using my Wheeler FAT wrench set at something like 50-60 in-lbs -
Regarding the 1000 yd jug video, His recipe is .5 gr over the Hodgdon guide, but in the comments for the video, someone describes his load as being half neck sized, “0.248 bushing sizing half of the neck” which would mean he is operating with a touch more case volume than the reloading guides assume. Probably a warm round but the extra volume might lower pressures a bit.
An amazing shot by any standard!
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Welcome, and thanks for the info 🙂
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It is difficult to quantify the reduction in recoil I get with the Witt Machine muzzle brake, but when shooting Hornady light mag (now Superformance) 180 gr 30-06 off the bench, the rifle jumps off the bags far less than without brake.
also I don't have to strangle (grip hard) the rifle to keep from getting “scoped” with the old short eye relief scope I was using. It does make that rig loud though…By the way I put a SWFA SS10x42 scope on it this winter and for the price ($299.00) it is a great optic. I use the gen 2 mountain tactical pic rails on all my tikkas so I can swap scopes with no fuss and no re-leveling (at least with the one-piece DNZ Freedom Reaper).
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Beautiful stock!
