Forums › Forums › General Discussion › hunter .243 and recoil issues.Moving to CTR , your thoughts?
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hunter .243 and recoil issues.Moving to CTR , your thoughts?
Posted by Matchman on December 31, 2014 at 3:29 pmThe recoil feels punishing to me. I'm accustom to shooting heavy rifles such as .308 AR-10 and heavy barrel bolts . (I'm a bench target guy). I thought there was some rumblings of recoil issues with these rifles due to stock design or maybe just the light weight.
Any how since the hunter was not bench friendly its gone. The accuracy was poor and the recoil lug was a poor fit in the stock and receiver. (possibly part of the recoil problem?)
Now the action and trigger were the best of any factory rifle I've handled.
I've decided to give a new CTR a go in .260 being that its heavier with a slightly different stock I hope not to have the same recoil issues.
Anyone have any experiences or opinions on this ?
I'm wondering what to expect with the ctrl?OBLivious replied 9 years, 3 months ago 6 Members · 13 Replies -
13 Replies
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1 Bullseye
I've noticed excessive muzzle flip in everything that has a drop angle to the stock since i started shooting aftermarket (M40 style) stocks. Benchrest has ruined us, my friend…. 🙂
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1 Bullseye
Got that right. I have a dedicated BR rig in 6ppc. Its night and day.
LMT MWS is easier to shoot accurately. -
1 Bullseye
I just got a CTR in .260. I have shot about 100 rounds through it so far, all from the bench working up loads and the recoil is very mild. Also, since the muzzle is threaded, it will be straightforward to put a brake on it. I have a brake on order since my goal is to have light enough recoil to see impacts shooting prone from a bipod. Don't know if that is realistic or not but will see. I haven't weighed it, but I think with the scope I have mounted and a full magazine it is around 9.5 pounds. That is probably at least a couple pounds heavier than your .243.
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105 Bullseyes
I have the 308 CTR, it does have a fair bit of barrel hop…you will need a brake on either the 260 or 308 versions to keep the target in the scope.
Brake design / style will also play a big part to reduce the hop and get the gun traveling perfectly straight back into your shoulder for target acquisition. This gun has no weight in the front even with the semi heavy 20″ barrel…Do your research.
OBLIVIOUS…please update us on the brake you ordered and how it performs. I'm trying to find one for my gun and any input / advice you have is appreciated.
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296 Bullseyes
Hi if I'm thinking correctly the thread is Imperial on the CTR ? I could be wrong if it is , have a look at a Lantac dragon for the .308
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1 Bullseye
I ordered a 4 port .875 muzzle break pre-threaded 5/8 x 24 from Nathan at
http://www.muzzlebrakesandmore.com
He only charges $45 shipped.
It came within a week and looks great. It matched right up to the threads on my CTR.
They come set up for 6mm and since doesn't have ports on the bottom will need to be timed.
I hope to get it reamed for .260, timed and contoured to match my barrel this weekend.
I will keep you posted on how it works out.
OB -
1 Bullseye
I have the 308 CTR, it does have a fair bit of barrel hop…you will need a brake on either the 260 or 308 versions to keep the target in the scope.
Brake design / style will also play a big part to reduce the hop and get the gun traveling perfectly straight back into your shoulder for target acquisition. This gun has no weight in the front even with the semi heavy 20″ barrel…Do your research.l
Do research ? WTF? There are none of these in the stores and limited experience with these even on the net. Now why do you think I would ask here ? Hello?
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105 Bullseyes
I have the 308 CTR, it does have a fair bit of barrel hop…you will need a brake on either the 260 or 308 versions to keep the target in the scope.
Brake design / style will also play a big part to reduce the hop and get the gun traveling perfectly straight back into your shoulder for target acquisition. This gun has no weight in the front even with the semi heavy 20″ barrel…Do your research.l
Do research ? WTF? There are none of these in the stores and limited experience with these even on the net. Now why do you think I would ask here ? Hello?
Lol…I think you completely took my post the wrong way…”Do your research” meant try to figure out what type of brake you will be needing or looking for after you actually “get” the gun and start shooting. You may have a totally different experience shooting your 260 versus me shooting my 308…there are a lot of brake options for the 5/8 threaded barrel. If you didn't like shooting a T3 in a 243, going to a CTR in 260 won't improve your recoil experience. One of the first things I've done with all my T3 guns is install a “Limbsaver” recoil pad and MT picatinny rail from Tikka Performance. The Limbsaver really tames the rifle and makes a huge difference for bench and bipod shooting, its the cheapest mod you can do to improve your shooting experience.
Thats why I asked OBLIVIOUS to report his info on a good brake, and results at the range after install…we all need more info like this.
All factory Tikka T3 wood & synthetic stocks are the same core design…They all pretty much shoot the same, though the heavier varmint barrels are nicer to shoot from a bench or bipod, thats the biggest difference I notice is the barrel weight, not the stock being wood or synthetic. I have these models so I know how they handle and perform.
T3 Battue 308
T3 Lite 300wsm
T3 Lite 223
T3 Varmint 223
T3 CTR 308 -
21 Bullseyes
Thanks Dog Down! For clarifying – I was one that took it wrong and I appologize.
Anyway back to the recoil issue, for sure the squishy limbsaver is the first step, but for anyone serious about reducing recoil, you MUST purchase some kind of muzzle brake. The cheapest is probably Witt Machine clamp on. The best is … I don't know lol. But threaded are way less likely to fail. Rest assured the noise will go up spectacularly! But that is why we buy hearing protection.
Edit: I have a Witt Machine brake on my T3 Hunter 30-06 and have no complaints yet!
Edit 2: I do have a complaint on Witt brakes… The screws they supplied me seemed to have soft heads and I stripped 2 of them using my Wheeler FAT wrench set at something like 50-60 in-lbs -
105 Bullseyes
No problem…
I totally agree a brake is the only sure way of reducing recoil.
I install radial brakes now because like you I had similar issues with the screws supplied with clamp on brakes. If you are a hunter and bench shooter like me, you will at some point be putting them on or taking them off on a regular basis and after a couple times the screws start to wear. The radial brakes are nice because its a quick easy off and on with no indexing but you do get debris blow back from them so when shooting from a bipod. That's the only down fail in my opinion.Here's the brake I've settled on for my 308 CTR….it gives you the best of both worlds.
It should screw on with no needed tooling to fit the CTR barrel dia…its 2mm larger in diameter so its not worth tapering it down, should look good as it is.PDF picture download below and here are a couple links to take a look…I already have their Quatro Max brake on my 300WSM and its a pussy cat now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AoKPgg2QXk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THt6ALCycm0#t=31 -
1 Bullseye
I just got back from the range after installing a muzzle brake on my CTR in .260. Recoil is dramatically reduced. I know it is somewhat subjective but the recoil on the bags is much more manageable than my 6.5×47 Lapua that weighs 13.5 lbs. POI was about 1.5 moa higher and 0.5 moa left of the same load without the brake. After I got it sighted in I shot the best 5 shot group yet from the rifle. I attempted to attach a couple of photos.
OB -
105 Bullseyes
Thats a great group! Looks like everything is coming together nicely!
I really like the brake, looks good. Does it still jump off the bags, or is it pretty much a push straight back now?
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1 Bullseye
The recoil is pretty much straight back now and pretty mild. I haven't shot off of a bipod yet. I think I will be able to watch my own impacts at least at longer ranges.
OB
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