[Ericbc7]

Sorry I was being far more judgmental than warranted, thanks for thoughtful replies…
Also avoid posting after 2 for 1 Long Island ice tea night.

I think our misunderstanding might be related to my profession, as a civil engineer I think of stiffness as “resistance to bending”.  Barrels don't respond this way.  They bulge and contract and stiffness may mean something different from the columns I am familiar with.  My appologies to Dog and asgen for applying my experience to the possibly unrelated subject.

[Ericbc7]

My understanding is that Properly fluted barrels are for all practical purposes identically as stiff as an un-fluted barrel of the same outside diameter.  If the stock is well vented, fluted barrels heat uniformly.  The biggest difference, apart from weight, is that they heat and cool faster than un-fluted barrels due to less mass and greater surface area.

[Ericbc7]

The T3 Sporter is available in the U.S. In 1:8 twist and 2 barrel lengths. Last time I checked it was in stock at SoDak sports in Aberdeen SD and euro optic.

[Ericbc7]

I'm no expert so fwiw-
Vertical stringing is often due to velocity variations between rounds, while horizontal spread can often be helped with bedding and/or pillar job and a lighter trigger.  Also if you are shooting off a bipod on a hard surface the rfle's harmonics can be inconsistent.  Use a piece of carpet on hard benches or shoot off of  sandbags for consistancy.

[Ericbc7]

The Tikka Hunter in .300 win mag is 1:11 twist which means you will probably want to keep the bullet weight close to 200 gr. for long range shooting.  From Brian Litz's Book “Applied Ballistics for Long-Range Shooting” for 1:11 twist:
208 gr A-Max nominal stability factor 1.31
190 gr Berger VLD  1.60
200 gr Berger Hybrid 1.34
210 gr Berger VLD  1.64
240 gr Matchking 1.35  – interestingly this bullet is unlikely to stabilize in a 1:11 twist while the 200 gr berger hybrid with the same SF should.
Litz advises that a stability factor over 1.4 is desirable for good stability although this is not a hard rule.  German Salizar has used heavy bullets in 30-06 that fall below SF 1.4 with good results at 1000 yds.

The Hybrids and juggernaut bullets will be easier to tune than the VLDs and are more likely to shoot well in mag length rounds although best accuracy will often require you to seat these bullets closer to lands than mag length will allow and require single loading with a bobsled insert or similar.

If you don't reload, probably the best match ammo available for 300 win mag is ABM ammo developed by Brian Litz.

If you are shooting your Hunter as it comes from the factory, there a few things that can improve accuracy or consistency.  Get the Mountain Tactical recoil lug, have the action bedded, get a lighter trigger spring and consider a muzzle brake.  There are many other possible improvements like a dedicated tactical or target stock if your budget allows.

Good luck and good shooting.
p.s. Welcome to the forum !

[Ericbc7]

If you go to eurooptic.com site they usually list the twist rates for the various Tikka models and calibers.

[Ericbc7]

I have never heard a bad thing about Zeiss optics. On your high kicking gun I would reccommend a brake.  Look at tiberasaurusrex on you tube to get info on tactical optics – he has some good insight.

[Ericbc7]

I would not expect the 75 gr amax to work well at .223 velocities but if you try em let us know!

[Ericbc7]

Hey Yukonal, how much material do you recommend leaving at the front?

[Ericbc7]

Any opinion on the Borka wrenches Yukonal?

[Ericbc7]

Yea like Yukonal said, what are you starting with? It's often cheaper to find a donor gun in the same caliber class (I mean bolt face size) than machine your smaller boltface to fit with all the replaced extractors and whatnot.

[Ericbc7]

Hey Ksd, hard to say, I would not pay for new bottom metal if you plan to change stocks.  Welcome to forum and I reccomend you get the new stock then have the bottom metal fitted.  Fore sure you should be able to have the ordered bottom metal fitted to many future stocks.

[Ericbc7]

Threading for a suppressor should not require special equipment.  The barrel is removed, threads cut, adapter is turned and suppressor is fitted, barrel is reattached. What is special?

[Ericbc7]

Dog is pretty much on point with break in… Although bore snake is not in my opinion the way to go.  The fabric can pick up hard particles and add to wear, get a stainless or similar rod and a bore saver for the cleaning.  It will keep the crap out of your action and won't carry abrasive bits with the rod.

The way to go on chronographs is hard to say, $100 seems to be the standard, I use the pro-chrono set up.  The thing is be deliberate in your set up.  Set up a Measured 10 feet from muzzle, check your graph with 10 rounds of .22 fired from the same gun and same lot of .22 shells to see if your numbers are different for a given day. Then … Keep notes.  That is all you can do unless you are very wealthy and can afford the next step up. Oheler precision stuff and pressure measuring equipment.

[Ericbc7]

Wow nice wildcat and over 4k fps with 22 in barrel! I've only seen that with some old “accellorator” saboted bullets I got at a gun show in my 30-06.  I still have 100 of those old .224 in polymer 30 cal sabo bullets.  Anyway great job and I am keen to know if you had any issues rebarreling your tikka.  Tell us the story friend and welcome!