Member Ericbc7
MemberForum Replies Created
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Sweet group Bob! You might be surprised what a T3 light will do at extended range.
And nice set up. What scope level are you using? I have 21 Century level and love it except it is hard to adjust since screw heads are on the bottom… Like most.
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Hi mack, My first thought is that there might be some foreign body in the bottom metal (plastic) or magazine release mechanism. 2nd, is there noticable wear on either the release or mag? That about uses up my thoughts on the matter. Good luck
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I don't have a trigger pull gauge, I like my trigger with Ernie the gunsmith spring, but YukonAl has way more gravitas than me and I have never heard him give bad advice… So take his advice before you commit to mine lol.
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I have seen the little crow reviews and hear no bad things about it. If I had the coin I would go with the giraud trimmer for its flexibility including bullet trimming. I use the Lee cutter and mandrel lol. It is the poor mans trimmer but it works well.
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Hey Dog, your exp with 75gr a-max is concerning. Do you have any method of checking them for concentricity? I see they are avail at brownells in 600 ct lot now
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I have 100 Berger 80.5s on hand I wil change primers to 205 Feds and redo this test (not the low end of course). I plan also to do the test with Varget. I do like h4895 with SMK's 80 gr.
I cleaned these cases with stainless steel pins and always use redding neck lube (the ceramic pellets with graphite or similar).
I am concerned about my ES. I used good technique I think, so it's either primer or powder variability I'm guessing. I know wolf primers are “cool” although consistent, and maybe hotter primers are the way to go.
All my charges were thrown with my chargemaster, tho not checked.
As a side note; the IMR 4166 did not need to be compressed, although I used a Frankford arsenal drop tube funnel to pour the charges.
I had some feedback from another site that suggested that wolf primers are soft and give high pressure signs early. That is why I'm trying fed 205s.well that and I found some at Scheels in Fargo lol.
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Still working on target evaluation but just a reminder that these were moly coated bullets so don't use the load data as is for naked bullets
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ah well done, you will probably see good performance on deer sized game regardless of the small differences in bullet weight. the main thing is accuracy, so what ever works best in that sense is the way to go.
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since you are doing some development, I suggest you try heavier ttsx bullets also.
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Here is a pic of my set up… I love the Tikka T3 Sporter!!!
Also the Vortex Viper 6-24 is excellent for my purposes!!!
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hey YukonAl, ty for reply, Interestingly, the only way a projectile could reach the “Complainer” is if a round was discharged AT and Over the club house. the “complainer” is about .9 miles away and has never shown evidence of a round- ie. hole, projectile, or anything. By the way the range has been there since i was a kid. I used to go there on my bike in 1977 and did my hunter safety course there in 1979 or so.
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Lost River you have a keen insight into my love of tikkas !!!
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Mikgarus is on track, if your tikka is not floated now, float it now lol.
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I look forward to the day when I have the tools to ream primer pockets… I accept it does make a difference but I have several things to perfect before I address primer pockets. Bedding and torque numbers make more difference in groups I think for most of us. Although Primer selection can make all the difference all else being equal or close.
Primer pocket consistency is related to brass brand and consistency. if you shoot lapua brass then dont worry about it, if you shoot what you can get, pocket consistency cant hurt.
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Miramichier grab that rifle now if you can!, the 1:8 twist is gold!!!
figure $700 for a current 1:10 twist, and $300 for new barrel in 1:8 or whatever, and $200 or more for fitting it and whatnot… up to you.
