[Ericbc7]

I have both the 6.5×55 and the creedmoor
If you reload get the old sweed
If you buy ammo get the creedmore.
The sweed will perform better but the creed will be cheaper – the sweed is stronger.

[Ericbc7]

Guys please post any probs or comments
We will try to answer

[Ericbc7]

death slow or otherwise in any situation is a problem if there are folks that need help and don’t get it.  I know that I have not helped when I could.

I have not kept up with this forum like I should and I apologize for not answering questions that I might.

I will try to make a effort to respond to questions in future.

[Ericbc7]

Sorry don’t know, call mountain tactical for info

[Ericbc7]

My advice is the same for mal and behoit.  There seems to be something wrong with your rifles. Send them back with clear complaints.  Identifying the problem will not make the return much easier.  Take photos, identify manufacturers of ammo.  Do all you can to clarify the problem, as beretta is a bit stodgy on complaints.  They will on the other hand fix the problem I bet.
Sorry for the delay though

[Ericbc7]

Good luck!

[Ericbc7]

Nice rifle and cartridge!
Get a torque wrench if you want to drill down on the variables.  I torque my action screws to about 30 inch lbs but you could go lighter for sure.  It is an iterative process, shoot groups at 25, at 35…. up to 40.
Then try 25 front, 30 rear and swap.  The point is if all else is equal, the tension in the bolts is the only variable.  Now if you bedded the action the torque is not the best fix. 
Good luck and I may be wrong, if dog says otherwise then listen to him.

[Ericbc7]

For 55 gr check out cfe powder, it’s cheap and I get decent accuracy at about 25.5-25.7 of course work up your loads

[Ericbc7]

As Larkin said you will probably have to go with German or Norwegian.  Check out Australian too since they do a lot of aftermarket products.
Also watch eBay as I have found stocks there

[Ericbc7]

If Grs doesn’t have a stock I’m not aware of a supplier that does.
You might look at Boyd’s or any other in an un-inletted stock and do the woodwork yourself.
It would make it a project but more personal.

[Ericbc7]

I have seen reports that the tikka barrels run slow (snipers hide) but have not heard any complaints about accuracy.  I have no personal experience regarding this (aside from accuracy).  Load development will need to be specific to your rifle.
The only way to be sure of the barrel condition is with a bore scope.  So if you have a significant number of rounds through it, either get a scope for $220 or buy a new barrel for $400 + install (maybe both).

[Ericbc7]

While all my tikkas (5) have been sub MOA with most factory and hand loaded ammo, I would try some other ammunition.  That failing, I would not hesitate to return the rifle for service.  My sympathies if returning it is a long and drawn out process.

[Ericbc7]

You will probably want to get a few more bushing and at least one smaller.  If you are tuning your neck tension you will certainly want to anneal your brass.  The more particular you are the more often you will need to anneal.
Good luck!

[Ericbc7]

I have the berserk stock and I also use mountain tactical’s bottom metal.
It’s a perfect combination since I can torque the action screws precisely-
The plastic bottom “metal” is mushy and doesn’t give good feedback with my torque wrench.

[Ericbc7]

I feel the 6.5 cm is a low recoiling caliber, so the main reason to add a recoil pad is to adjust the length of pull of the stock.
Boyd’s gun stocks has a video on YouTube on how to measure length of pull.
Good luck