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Range test…
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Load Development…
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Muzzle Brake…
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LOP stock adjustment…
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Rail / Rings / Optics…
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Bedding the Stock…
Just spent the last 3 hours making a Jig and hand routering the B&C stock I'm using for the project.
No CNC to do this so I went a little Redneck and made my own with a Router and carbide 1/4″ milling bit.
Built the plywood Jig, then used fences with washers for spacing to make sure I had a stop point when routering to avoid killing the stock. Bad video but you get the idea…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCBGf5Ujgx8I removed the milled recoil lug completely out of the stock as per instructions and advice from several gunsmiths, and removed material for a new lug. This allows me to bed the rifle with the recoil lug glued to the action. It will separate from the action and be bedded permanently in the stock when complete.
Material was also removed from the sides and tang to give a complete base for compound.
Once the steel recoil lug arrives I'll update the post when I actually epoxy / bed the action to the stock.
Here's the result of the DIY milling…I think it turned out great, you would never know it was done by hand.***Update***
Just bedded the action to the B&C stock…first bedding job so hoping for the best.
We'll find out tomorrow morning. -
I had good success with TTSX 180's and H4831sc, very accurate…the factory 165TTSX also shot very well from my 300WSM. Its a great bullet but the Amax's or Accubonds that I now shoot are half the cost. If they were cheaper I would have stuck with them but I shoot too much to be blasting these off all the time.
I think a read a post on here somewhere where a guy mentioned he was using Superformance powder with the lighter pills in his 300WSM with great success. And from my own experience they like to loaded to manual specs, no need to chase the lands with this bullet…
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Every rifle I shoot groups better with a front rest or Bipod / rear bag setup from a bench or prone…everything allowing the rifle to naturally slide backwards with the recoil. When I plan on target shooting the larger calibers in light stocks I just add a brake to the rifle…I'm not shy about that. I love muzzle brakes.
Sleds have never helped me gain better accuracy or help improve any shooting form/technique…its actually had the opposite effect. Creates bad habits and makes you more recoil shy when you can't use it.
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Forster micrometer seating die…Thats a kick ass die…you are well on your way to some accurate loading.
Sounds like you have a good plan of attack. Looking forward to your report from range test.Correct…Meant “non” uniform…I corrected the typo above.
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I measure COAL for “every” round when I'm loading for accuracy…I don't skip one.
I use my calliper to let me know if I'm compressing the loads too much. As soon as I start getting “non” uniform OAL's I know I can't control what is happening every time I push a bullet into the case so I back off. I don't play with die bushings for neck tension so I also watch for expansion days after loading is complete. As mentioned, overly compressed loads would expand and increase the COAL when sitting on the shelf so thats another sign to watch for. Don't let the crunch scare you though, You gotta get a lot of powder in that case to push the heavies with good velocity.
You'll be into the lands before you get to max out that mag you have…most guys I know of are well into the lands before they reach 2.5″ COAL. I hunt with my rifles so I always stay .030 or more off the lands on all load develop. Don't want to be in the field and take the chance of separating a round in the rifle by jamming it on the lands or having issues chambering if any of the rounds expand.
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Found this site by luck only…was looking for replacement screws for a rail…stripped a couple trying to remove it. Re-building my 300wsm for a Fly in Moose hunt this fall in Northern Ontario.
New stock (will be bedding it) new scope, new load development for 190gr Accubond LR (love this bullet!!!)….all the goodies. Might be the one and only time I get to do a trip like this so making the rifle specifically for the trip.
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Very interested in your load development with IMR 4166…I've never loaded with it so following this closely.
Knowing what I've learned over the last year playing with 75Amax and Varget I would advise not even testing on the lower end of powder charges…start about 2gr's below max published load and work up from there. My guns ( T3 Lite & T3 Varmint) didn't produce nodes with acceptable velocity till close to max pressures…You should start seeing pressure signs around 25.5grs of Varget, not sure if you'll get to 26grs without issues.
You've picked good bullets. Both have great potential for short and long range shooting especially if you keep velocity up. Both bullets really start to drop fast after 500yrds so velocity is important for extended ranges…
I'd start with a COAL of 2.45″ while working up your loads,…once you find something that looks good start pushing it closer to the lands to see where its shines the best.
***On the last batch I loaded with Varget, I used an old vibrating tooth brush to settle the powder and it really helped with the compressed load, and it even stabilized the seating depth…the previous compressed loads would expand from 2.45 to 2.46+ no matter what I did if it sat for days before I fired them. Vibrating the cases worked great to cure this issue.***
GOOD LUCK…
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You will need this one…
https://tikkaperformance.com/tikka-parts/tikka-t3/tikka-t3-accessories/tikka-magazine
Fits Calibers: 25-06/.270/7×57/30-06/7mm Remington/300 Winchester Mag/338 Winchester Mag 3 RD
Buy from the guys here, can't beat the service!!! Share the wealth!
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You can also just buy the long action bolt stop and for go all DIY gunsmithing…depends on your skill set and confidence to do it right…
Here's pics of both…if you want to do it yourself.
