[Dog Down]

If you have a chance to try Varget, load a few cases with 25.3-25.7grs (somewhere in that range) with that bullet.  You should be around 3000fps…out of a Tikka Lite or Varmint barrel.  You won't be disappointed, trust me!

I shoot a 60gr Nosler BT Spitzer over 25.5grs of Varget and its sub MOA out to 500yrds if wind isn't blowing too hard…3100fps out of my 223 Varmint.  Super accurate load.

CFE223 worked will in my 223 as well but I only shoot this powder in the summer… 26.7grs  and a Nosler 55gr BT Spitzer = 3200fps…Does this to clay targets at 400+ yards.  I glued this one back together to keep on my reloading bench.  One of the best cold bore shots I've made to date….only 1/2″ off at 420yrds accounting for wind.  That does not happen everyday.

[Dog Down]

The good news is its a 2″ group at 300…Bad news its a 2″ group at 100
I've never seen a situation where a gun will hold the same “group” size from 3 different yardages like this. Normally if your groups are 2″ at 300, they would be 1″ or less at 100 for sure.

Without target pictures showing the groups there isn't much I can help with. It seems like an odd situation.

[Dog Down]

His gun shoots really well if you don't get it too hot…shoots some ammo better than others but 
Winchester Silvertips in 180gr is his go to round for off the shelf ammo, its a capable sub MOA gun.

[Dog Down]

Those aren't bad numbers at all…single digits are rare, but anything under 20fps is perfect. But thats a difficult task as well.  Here's something that has helped me since i've started reloading.

I work brass in groups of 50, and I weigh / sort bullets.  I use 1 set of 50 sorted brass for all my target shooting till I start getting split necks, enlarged primer pockets, or too short…this may be any where from 5-10+ reloads depending on caliber and brand of brass.  When I get 5-10 cases in the set with these issues I toss the bunch and start over with a another sorted set of 50…I never load 100's of rounds or anything like that for a specific load unless it varmint hunting.  And I never mix reloaded brass, meaning…I never mix reload #5 brass with reload #1 brass…Always working the same set of 50 brass cases.  I picked 50 specifically because of the MTM ammo cases.  I have about 200-300 rounds in MTM boxes on the shelf fully prepped and sorted for each of the 3 calibers that I regularly shoot, 308 / 300wsm / 223…this simple thing  improved the quality of the reloads I make.  Its easy after that, trim brass, prime brass, fill cases, press bullet…control every factor you can.

I've got a couple loads now that are holding a 20SD or better, Varget & H4831sc powders are mostly responsible for that…best powders for my guns

Here's one:
https://tikkashooters.com/public_html/general-discussion/75gr-amax-100yrd-groups-load-data-for-tikka-223/msg4628/#msg4628

[Dog Down]

No problem…its one more thing you need to know for accurate loads and drop charts.

SD = Standard Deviation…you input the data of say 10 shots of your reloads and you get the average difference in velocity averaged over 10 shots…the lower the number the better for accurate reloads.  Its makes a huge difference if you are shooting long range.

Here's a link to a quick calculator, just input your chronograph numbers for 10 shoots and calculate.
https://www.easycalculation.com/statistics/standard-deviation.php
Some of the better chronographs measure this for you, you just need to surf through the menu.

Copied from the web…

The chronograph measures the velocity of your bullet (or arrows, pellets, etc.) as it travels through the sensors, in feet per second (fps)and will also record the number of shots, the high velocity, the low velocity, extreme spread (ES), the average velocity, and standard deviation (SD).
The “high” reading shows the fastest shot, the “low” reading shows the slowest shot, the “average” gives you the average of five shots or ten shots ( called the shot string or ‘string’). The extreme spread (ES) is the fastest shot minus the slowest shot.
The (ES) goal for the long distance hunter should be within 30 fps or better. And 20 fps puts you at the beginning of competitive benchrest shooting. There is also standard deviation (SD) which is the measure of how close each shot’s velocity in the shot string will be to the “average.” For the long-range marksman, 9 to 12 fps is good. The lower the (SD) the better.

[Dog Down]

Post some target photos so we can see what you are describing…are you saying you groups are the same at 100 / 200 / 300 in size?

[Dog Down]

Looks like the 168 load is coming together…my groups really started to get tight around 46+ grs…
What was your SD on the reloads? 

[Dog Down]

Awesome build, and a great write up!

[Dog Down]

Hey Jeff,

My buddy has the same gun and we worked up 2 loads for it a couple of  weeks ago that worked great for the TSX bullet.  Using Varget & H4831sc…

For both the 165 & 180 TSX we loaded each bullet so the case neck was level with the middle of the top groove on the bullet, using it as a canna lure.  I've read about this technique used by other reloaders so we gave it a shoot..coal will depend on how you trim your cases but the 180's are around 2.9″
Average group size for both loads was 1/2″ or better but the 180's kick like a mule though!  Gets to be a bit much when you have 1 guy firing 20-30 rds for load development.
Velocity wasn't the greatest with either powder but accuracy is what were going for.
3 shot groups @ 100yrds…I'm sure both loads could be tweaked some more but for hunting it good enough.

165 TSX
Varget – sweet spot 49.7-50grs
velocity – 2650-2700fps

180 TSX
H4821sc – sweet spot 61.7-62gr (compressed load)
velocity – 2700-2725

[Dog Down]

Not good that its happening all the time…might be a deeper issue.
It shouldn't be marking cases up like that on standard length off the shelf ammo.

[Dog Down]

Its not heavy enough IMO…I put the carbon fibre handle on 2 of my rifles this year and wish I bought the the heavier metal bolt as I had done on previous guns especially when bench shooting and cycling a lot of rounds.  The carbon model is great for a carry hunting rifle though…
The straight design also works the bolt better from my experience if you are trying to decide on a style.

Here are links for both so you can compare the ones I actually run on my guns.

Carbon Fibre – http://www.coretacsolutions.com/products_LA_TIKKA_KH_KIT.htm

Stainless – http://www.coretacsolutions.com/products_AW_TIKKA_UPPER_SS.htm
Stainless + Aluminum – http://www.coretacsolutions.com/products_AW_TIKKA_UPPER_AL.htm

[Dog Down]

Sorry man, can't help you then.
The only time I've seen this is with improper sized brass.
Does it do this all the time or only on this box of ammo?

[Dog Down]

Any update?

[Dog Down]

This is a picture of a “properly” modified 300wsm mag rebuilt to handle the extra coal for the 208 amax and other heavies…it functions and looks like a stock mag, you would not know its modified.

I'll be posting a DIY project thread in the next month showing how to do this using a product from
Ballistic Studies…Stay tuned.

[Dog Down]

Hey,

Are you using a full length resizing die?…if so I'm guessing you are not bottoming out the die and the shoulder isn't right.  I've had this happen to me before and after I adjusted the die so it bottoms out snug against the shell holder it cured the issue.  Use more case lube… it will help cure the problem as well.

One way to quickly test this….if you have empty resized brass from your last resizing routine try chambering the empty case by dropping the shell in the throat with the rifle vertical and then close the bolt.  If the bolt is heavy or binding its the shoulder for sure.

Reset the die and resize the same brass, if the bolt now functions normal you have cured the problem.

I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with the new chassis or the way its loading….

Now fix the issue so you can send me my new stock well ya!!!