Member airfoil
MemberForum Replies Created
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pix
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…it's now 3/9/16 and the .223 tikka sporter does not group like it used to…
The wood stock is NOT bedded and/or pillared. The aluminum stock lug is pretty loose in the wood and action, and shows signs of wear. I gotta fix this issue, so it's bed time.
Bought the Lumley arms kit which includes titanium lug, steel bottom metal, fitted pillars and action screws… a nice kit. AND I can use AI type mags that WORK properly!
Wish me luck, and I'll update.
3/30/16
60 degrees… finally warm enough. At 100 yrds, shot sub moa…as it was when I got the rifle.
Pleased with the AI mags as well. Now I will be able to toy with seating longer as the AI mag has plenty of room to seat to the lands and to use 80 grain pills. Problem solved.
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Good to hear your sorting it out…in my experience a muzzle brake didn't effect group size much, but point of impact change was about 2″.
You should be able, with proper hold, to see the bullet impact through the scope. That helps you keep the rifle and yourself in the same position, shot after shot.
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My gunsmith did not remove the barrel to cut threads…cost was $90. I took the actioned barrel out of the stock, took off the scope and reassembled when done. The Kiniteck brake (with the sleeve which makes all the flak about other shooters pain…moot) was around $60.
Reloading a .308 costs around .30 cents ea. To be a “shooter” you almost gotta reload… or be good friends with someone who does.
Keep at it.
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Ok…IF your barrel is threaded in the 18 tpi whatever as on my Tikka .223, this won't work…
IF your going to have your barrel threaded in the much more common 'USA standard' 5/8″x 24…this place makes a brake that will address your concerns…
It has a removable sleeve…If your at a range and feel that you'll disturb others, leave it on, if not take it off and enjoy.
I have it on a .308, (although a Rem700) and it works great..and not that pricey as far as brakes go. I've got them on two rifles.
I try to get on the end of the firing line, and set my hard sided case up blocking the guy next to me, and that cuts the concussion effect down.
RECOIL isn't the problem…muzzle jump…taking you off the point of aim, not being able to SEE bullet impact is the problem…
Kinetech may make you a custom thread…I doubt it, but…
P.S.
I've just remembered, I didn't see anything about you “loading” the bipod, that helps with or without a brake…search around Utube, Snipershide, etc. for instructions on the concept, if your not familiar with the idea.
For benchrest, I have cut a 4' x 2' piece of thin black foam plastic stuff (used for tool drawer liner) and zip tied a dowel on the leading edge to give me something to 'load' the bipod against… (as well a being a somewhat comfy mat to rest your elbows and rear bag). I've also seen guys do the same with a piece of carpet… -
I have the 16x on a .308, I can see bulletholes at 200 yds. It's not a Nightforce, but it was 1/4 the cost, and feels well made.
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A muzzle brake cuts the recoil down considerably on my .308…still bounces (benched, with bipod and bag), but if I hold right, it comes back to point of aim…almost.
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To follow up on the mag spring..shot around 60 rounds and the mag started to jam again..took apart the thing and bend the rear even more, and cured the problem for now…it seems the spring is weak?
I only load five into it, and all is well for now. These tikka mags are kinda weak all the way around.
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I'm thinking the spring is not seating all the down…(maybe hanging on some part of the mag body…burrs?) the spring can be removed from the magazine without taking the mag apart…push the follower down with a pencil and move the follower forward, the spring with follower should spring out and then you can reseat. At least mine does. Sometimes while futzing with mine I've gotten the spring seat incorrectly, and it will not take more than three.
Good luck…. and I've also pretty much decided to upgrade bottom metal as well…the only thing I don't like about the AI mags is they are just as expensive as tikkas and 10 round only… but If they are as bullet-proof as on my .308, they'll be worth it.
Edit…I see they are selling the .223 AI mag here for $40.00…seems a good price
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Seems I have made some improvement…taking the mag apart and stretching the spring up in the rear, giving the follower about a 30 degree tilt downwards in front has cycled about 20 rounds perfectly.
Here's hoping…
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The Boyds stock does not have pillars, nor is it bedded…however both are DIY possible. I've got a thumbhole on a Remington 700 and after doing same it works fine.
I only wish I had gotten the 'tacticool' model for a better cheekweld. As is, I glued a 1/2″ cheekpad on it. The LOP also was short for me, I put another 1″ on her with a different recoil pad.
I would guess it would be a upgrade from a 'plastic' stock…however, My Remmy shot MOA before and after…didn't seem to matter much as far as my shooting goes…The stiffer forend was a plus for off bags or a bipod…and I like wood better than polymer.
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If the scope won't take recoil, from any which way motion, it's not worth having. Buy a good scope, with a real world warranty.
In my experience, your not going to mitigate recoil any other way than with weight, a brake or a recoil pad of some sort…or shoot a .22lr.
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After shooting about 60 rds, the new 6 rd. mag is doing the same as the old mag…it won't feed reliably.
Back to the drawing board.
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The new mags seem to work as intended…ran a few cycles of each without any problems, and I sent the defective one back for exchange.
I'm a happy camper
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I've gone ahead and ordered a 4 rd as well as a 6 rd mag directly from Beretta…will post if they work or not.
If someone comes up with a metal mag that works, I think they will sell. I've been searching the webs for answers and have found many people are dissatisfied with the plastic mags, and it seems nobody has a solution.
I've thought of trying another mag spring, but… don't have one that fits.
