[260RemsAlot]

Just to follow up my first post… I went ahead and tried sizing my brass with the .288 bushing. When I went to seat the bullet, I noticed there was very little resistance. I then tried to push the bullet down into the case and was able to so pretty easily. I decided not to shoot the rounds and I am going to order a .286 bushing from midway.

I think either because I used a different bullet or a different seating depth is the reason the measurement changed. I figure with a .286 bushing I should be fine for a wide range of outside neck diameters.

[260RemsAlot]

Hey there! Thanks for the reply much appreciated. Ya this is my first time experimenting with neck turning and neck tension, so I have a little more learning to do. I may have to check my numbers again. But yes, neck turning and custom chamber. I am using Winchester .243 cases and neck turned down to about .013″. No compressed loads, either.

Without getting too complicated, my initial measurement for bushing size was done using 140 matchburner's, but this latest measurement was with 140 rdf's. So maybe that is having an effect? Not really sure how this happened, so that's what makes me think my numbers could be off. Otherwise, I may just try them out if safety isn't a concern because worst case scenario my neck tension is .002″, right?

Thanks again for the help.

[260RemsAlot]

Thanks man I try! Haha. A lot of late nights researching!

[260RemsAlot]

Yup! I use a magneto speed chrono. I also trust my scope, SWFA 16x. Never had a problem with tracking. I know my system works because I have scored first round hits with my .223 out to 650 yards in my standard conditions, and also at 680 yards in Wyoming with a 3000 foot elevation change! When I use the velocity from the magneto and the higher bc, it matches exactly the results I get from 300-600 yards, so hopefully when my friend and I can get out to longer ranges we will see how it matches up.

On a side note, I never go by 100 yard groups. For one… I can't afford it haha. I get one box of bullets and work up a load in as few of rounds as possible. I shoot a latter test and go by velocity. Then I do an ocw test to really narrow it down. I usually can get it done in 15 rounds, and under 10 rounds if i just go right to the higher end of charge weights.

I actually never test at 100 yards. Like you said, when I first started  reloading I'd go for 100 yard groups alone, but i found out this does not guarantee long range accuracy. Now i test at 200-500 yards and I test for least vertical dispersion and tightest velocity spread.

[260RemsAlot]

Hey man congrats on the new purchase! If you wanna get the best compromise of accuracy and price, I recommend handloading! Sorry, I know this doesn't help you much, but my whole definition of accuracy changed when I started handloading. On top of that, I'm at roughly .40 cents a round for match grade ammo!

Otherwise, if you can find ADI outback ammo, I've had really good luck with that, and it's relatively cheap. I've had good luck with hornady, too, if you can find it. I'd definitely save the brass from those two!

Good luck man!

[260RemsAlot]

Just a side note on muzzle brakes, no offense to anyone, but muzzle brakes just plain suck to shoot next to. Just my opinion. It may be difficult to get someone to spot for you after the first shot. My friend has a hefty brake on his .223 ar15 and I had a major head ache after a day at the range with him.

There's no doubt they cut back on recoil, that is definitely a positive. But you should also consider that you will probably have to shoot the gun the exact same time, evertytime, making sure the gun recoils as straight back as possible. Check out muzzle brake pull off effect. Just some things to consider.

[260RemsAlot]

You should check out the Bell and Carlson M40 stock! It looks like a comfortable stock and it seems like it would be good in the field as far as using a squeeze bag for elevation, if that's what your looking for.

I went with the manners t4 tikka stock. I can definitely recommend this one if you have a heavy barrel! It's comfortable and sturdy, and when I squeeze the trigger the cross hairs stay right on target! I can hardly even try to get them off target. Good luck!

[260RemsAlot]

Hey thanks for the advice! I went ahead and bedded the base. I ran some rounds through it before and the accuracy was fine but I was consistently hitting high at 500-600 yards, as opposed to what my ballistic calculator was calling for.

After bedding, the accuracy is still great! I'm still hitting high, however, but the tracking is spot on. So, my hypothesis is… and I hope not to start a debate with this… but I believe my barrel (Bartlein with 5r rifling) is causing less bullet deformation, thereby decreasing drag and increasing ballistic coefficient! 

I tried the ballistic truing feature in strelok and when I used the modified bc, I was spot on at least to 600 yards. Now I just have test this hypothesis at longer ranges. My shooting friend and I should be able to get out passed 1000 yards finally so we'll see how it goes!

[260RemsAlot]

Awesome thanks! I really hope they don't mind. Haha I just hope I can hang with the rest of the shooters but I know my Tikka is up to the challenge!

[260RemsAlot]

Thanks man. That's good to hear. I'm definitely willing to help, just wanted to get a taste of what it's like. Would you say that's pretty universal? I live in Midwestern United States so hopefully these matches are that generous.

Thanks for the straightforward reply by the way ; ) haha.

[260RemsAlot]

Awesome, thanks! I'm gonna work on this tonight!

[260RemsAlot]

Yup, makes sense! And to be honest, I was considering gluing down the base anyways because I don't see any reason I will be removing it in the future.

Sorry, just a couple more questions, and this might be kind of a dumb question, but will bedding the entire base at once lose sone of the 20 moa offset? And would you suggest just filling in the gap for the recoil lug on the base of the receiver? I really tried looking hard on the internet, but like I said, all the information is for Remington 700 actions.

Thanks again!

[260RemsAlot]

Last one.

[260RemsAlot]

One more.

[260RemsAlot]

Thanks man, I really appreciate that. Sorry for the smart a** replies but I'm really looking for advice. I'll attach a couple pics of the gap and then one of the back where there is no gap. Now that you mention it, I did have the gunsmith duracoat the action only, so maybe that is having an effect?

My biggest issue with this is that I am consistently missing by about .2 mils high at 500 and 600 yards, as far as what my ballistic calculator is calling for. I have accounted for all the conditions and I am using a magneto speed for a chronograph. I know my system works because my .223 has always been spot on out to 700 yards. I just want to get everything ready because my shooting friend and I finally got access to 1000+ yards.

I guess I'm not asking whether you would bed it or not because I will make the final decision on that as I keep shooting the rifle. What I'm asking is how would you do it since it is a fully enclosed action, unlike the Remington 700, which it seems like all the info on the internet is for? Would you bed the entire base or just fill in where the gap is? Also, since it is a 20 moa base, would I be better off just bedding the back with the front tightened dow? Hope this all makes sense.

Thanks again.