Member 10 Spot Terminator
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Very nice!
What twist is your barrel?Sorry sir ,
Didnt get an alert there was a reply to my thread . It is the 1 in 8 twist . Note too it is the T3 Lite and not one of the heavier barreled Varmit models . Hope this gets back to you .
10 Spot
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That sounds good on the clearance on the stock . the trick with the folded bill tends to center the barrel as best is possible for maximum clearance when firing . It takes ever so little contact to influance the barrel harmonics . with the 1 in 10 twist the bullets 55grs or under should perform the best . One of the best all round bullets in that class based on many shooting forum feedbacks and one I have had great success with as well is the Sierra 52 gr. HP match . They run between 18 to 20 bucks per hundred and seem to stay fairly available to we reloaders but am not sure if they are commercially loaded in factory ammo .
10 Spot
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I have the T3 Lite stainless but it has the now obsolete 1 in 8 twist and I wouldnt expect my loads to perform quite the same in your rifle but 5.0 moa I agree is totally unreasonable . My stock the first couple of times I removed it was indeed a bit tight but by barrel floated farther towards the action than yours appears to do . Here is the best trick to align you action within the stock on all rifles including the Tikkas . take your dollar ( or 5 , 10 , 20 ) and fold it in half lengthwise . place your action back into the stock but do not install the action retainer screw yet . Now slowly raise the muzzle of the rifle to allow you to insert the folded ( doubled ) bill under it and then lower the muzzle to allow it to settle into the stock . Now slowly work the bill down toward the action until it wants to stop under moderate pressure . Install the action retainer screw until it is just finger tight . Lightly bump the underside of the stock just forward of the magazine a few times with your hand or a rubber mallet all the while with the rifle in horizontal and upright position . Again check the action screw for finger tightness . That being done turn the rifle into the verticle position and lightly bump the butstock on the floor while holding it by the stock only with no fingers contacting the action . This being done check to see if the bill will still move freely from side to side . If it will move then slowly while the bill is still inserted begin to tighten the action screw checking the bill movement every turn or sow of the screw . As the screw tightens if the bill begins to hang up slightly move the bill toward the muzzle and tighten the screw some more alternating back and forth between tightening the screw and moving the bill . When the screw is fully tightened remove the bill , unfold it and recheck how far the single bill layer will move when slid from the muzzle end toward the action . It should go down close to within 6 inches of the forward edge of the magazine . If not and you feel some resistance or a sticky spot use a piece of chalk to mark the stock where the resistance occured and get on with the removal of the stock and start sanding ( or send the thing back for warranty work ) . This is where I would start as well with your upgraded rings . Let us know how this progresses .
10 Spot
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Which variation of the T3 did you purchase ? What specifically were the 3 types of ammo that you purchased and tried shooting ? When you reinstalled the action into the stock did you rechesk to see if the barrel was still floated and not contacting the inside of the stock ? I might be able to help with the answers to these questions .
10 Spot
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Hello Stef.
As the case and follower are of a plastic composite I would try applying a small amount of a silicone based lube to the inside of the magazine or a dry lube such as graphite and then work the follower repeatedly by hand using a piece of wood that closely matches the the dimensions of the follower to keep it level while working in the lube . I cant imagine you took any tension of of the spring steel follower spring . That is nearly impossible unless it is tempered with high heat . If that doesnt work there must be a burr somewhere in the magazines side walls or in the follower itself and would need to be polished out . If you take the magazine apart again you can always attempt to stretch the follower spring and increase the tension but you are on your own and may need to resolve yourself to the idea of having to replace the magazine should that fail . Good luck to you sir .
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Read the last thread in this category posted by Tikkamike listed under “something to keep in mind” . It is definitely what you are asking about .
10 spot
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Welcome to the addiction …
for most all of the items tou have listed RCBS should do as nicely for you just getting started as they have for me after a good 15 years or more of use . To save a few dollars you might try e-bay and get some of those items used as they dont really wear out anyway . If you get the neck brush it has a threaded handle and will accept a primer pocket reamer but I would recommend their swager accessory that fits on the press . Easier and less chance of having the pockets end up a little loose . Their flash hole deburr tool works very nicely . Their neck deburr and champfer tool has been copied by Lyman and others and will do the job for small volume loading . Their powder trickler as well as the uni-flow powder measure are fine as well . You may want to consider a hand priming tool and here again RCBS has a good one . The only non average tool I recommend would be the Redding competition bullet seater dies . Bullet seating has been the one operation that has been the hardest for me to duplicate from one loading to another and one bullet lot to another . These dies are worth the extra exspense . You are starting on a very rewarding hobby and I wish you all the best .
10 Spot
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That nice lookin rifle shore duz make them boots look BIG !!! ;D
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Very nicely done sir ! Definitely should be required reading for one and all !
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After checking to make sure the scope mounts and rings are tight the most common reason for horizontal stringing is a stock bedding issue most particularily if there is contact between one side or the other in the forearm and secondly if the action is not squared in the bedding block. You can attempt to reset the action in the stock by loosening the action screws until you can move the barrel slightly then do this. Take some thin yet strong paper such as that found on the back of shipping lables and take a strip appx. 3 in. long x 1 1/2 in. wide and fold it over widthwise twice so you have a narrow strip 4 layers thick. Insert the paper strip under the very end of the barrel and slide it up into the very end of the forearm. If the paper will not fit try a 3 layer fold and insert again. Be sure to leave tag ends of the paper sticking out on both sides of the barrel above the top of the forearm for equal spacing. This done begin to slowly retighten the action screws until you feel them come to finger tight. At this point lightly bump the buttstock of the rifle a few times on the floor with the barrel pointing straight up and holding only the stock and never the barrel. Now is the time to remove the paper being very careful not to bump the barrel and tighten the action screws fully. Now check the spacing between the barrel and forearm using a good old dollar bill by draping it under the barrel and see if it slides nice and freeley up the barrel between it and the forearm. If you get a spot where it starts to bite then you have an issue with the stock. Of note there are some rifles designed with a pressure ring or screw in the forearm to purposely apply tension to the barrel. 2 schools of thought exist on standard probuction rifles, either free floating the barrel or applying tension to reduce barrel whip. Rule of thumb ( but not always ) is a properly floated barrel ( as discussed here ) is the better of the systems. DO NOT as stated earlier discount a cross breeze as the culprit but no breeze equals issue with the firearm. Hope this helps.
10 Spot
