-
T3x Tac A1 Triger Issue
I have owned a T3x Tac A1 for over a year and have over a 1,000 rounds through it. I recently noticed that the trigger pull weight was increasing from the level I had originally set it on. I stripped the rifle down and readjusted the screw and it worked fine for most of the day, Saturday. I then noticed that it would get really heavy, then not function at all. A complete lock up. Manipulating the bolt, it would eventually right itself, but one shot later and the problem resurfaces? Any ideas on what the cause and/or remedy may be? I've cleaned it thoroughly to ensure there are no oils or debris in the trigger group, but it still hasn't helped.
I ordered a replacement Trigger Spring from Mountain Tactical (Got it a few hours ago) and intend to drop it in tonight. At that time I will remove the trigger and go through the whole thing.
Any help you can provide would be very much appreciated.
Cheers…
-
10 Replies
-
Sorry I cannot offer any practical help hopefully it’s just might be the spring that’s snapped , it’s the first time I’ve heard about trigger problems , there’s been a few bolt head space problems
-
Did you try a little **Blue** Locktite?
BTW – How much did you have to remove to get to the trigger assembly, e.g., handguard, barrel nut lock-plate, and replace the trigger spring? I bought a spring from Elay Precision and I'm curious how much work is ahead of me.
-
I removed the old spring, last night, and installed the Mountain Tactical. Prior to doing so, I played with the adjustment screw, with the old spring, and it really did not change the pull weight much, if at all and never got much below 3lbs 6oz. I installed the Mountain Tactical spring, and experienced a similar result… the adjustment screw didn't really have much effect on the pull weight. At it's lightest setting, it is still around 2lbs 6 oz (+/- 2 ozs), but would occasionally register around 1lb 14oz and then as much as 3lbs+… Very inconsistent. I was expecting a pull weight of less than 1lb, which is what I am aiming for.
I thoroughly cleaned the trigger, but nothing improved. I may drop it in the sonic cleaner and see if that helps. It would appear there is something of an internal issue within the trigger group internals.
I've tried loctite, but unless I can get the pull weight to the desired setting, and obtain consistent results, it's not going to be of much help.
And thank you both for the input.
Cheers…
-
Conaso… Sorry, I meant to include a response to your disassembly question. Yes, you have to remove the hand guard, lock plate, and then the action/receiver screws. The first time it seemed like a bit of a pain in the arse, but having done it several times it's not that much of an issue.
You'll need a T25 torx bit/wrench for the screws on the guard and barrel nut. And a 5mm allen for the receiver screws (62 ft lbs).
I think the spring retaining/adjustment screw is 2mm or 2.5mm.
Check my specs on the tools and torque specs before you start on it.
Cheers…
. reciver
-
Might be worth contacting the shop where you got it from or the importer , don’t know the law on goods where ever you are as I’m in England
-
Larkin… I am originally from the UK, but currently reside in the Memphis area. I am actually shocked at how many shooters there are in the UK, and by that I mean how many people own firearms. Bit of a surprise really.
I bought my T3x Tac A1 from a dealer in New Jersey and had it shipped to a local FFL (Federal Firearms Licence) dealer for the transfer… No, you really can't go into Walmart and walk out with a fully auto 50 BMG, or buy a bazooka on line as some news outlets would have us believe…
In any event, I have contacted Beretta (the US distributor and owner of the Sako and Tikka group), but I'm not expecting much of a response other than send it back for service, which I don't want to do if I can help it.
I am considering a Timney trigger, or other alternative, but I really can't see the advantage as their 2 stage trigger only gives a minimum combined pull weight of 1.5lbs. And I think the stock Tikka trigger is really good and would do the job with the lighter spring, provided I can get it to work correctly, again.
Cheers…
-
Conaso… Sorry, I meant to include a response to your disassembly question. Yes, you have to remove the hand guard, lock plate, and then the action/receiver screws. The first time it seemed like a bit of a pain in the arse, but having done it several times it's not that much of an issue.
You'll need a T25 torx bit/wrench for the screws on the guard and barrel nut. And a 5mm allen for the receiver screws (62 ft lbs).
I think the spring retaining/adjustment screw is 2mm or 2.5mm.
Check my specs on the tools and torque specs before you start on it.
Thanks for the info. I have the necessary tools. Do you have the specs for the handguard and barrel nut retainer screws?
I asked Beretta but never received a reply.
BTW – I think you meant 62 in/lbs for the action screws.
-
See, I told you to check me… :-[ Sorry about that… Yes, 62 inch lbs.
I will check my manual when I get home later this evening, but I'm not sure it contains the specs. I have seen some data for other T3 models and it looks like they could be 15 inch lbs, which wouldn't be far off. In any event I'll let you know.
-
Conaso… I can't find the specs for the Hand Guard or Barrel Nut in the manual that came with my Tac A1.. The info covering this particular item is really just a supplemental insert and not very detailed. I reassembled the rifle last night and torqued the bolts in the Nut to about 18-20 in/lbs… It felt good enough… I went a bit lighter on the Hand Guard bolts. I would rather have them a little loose than over tighten them.
Essentially, they mainly hold the Hand Guard on, so I'll just keep a Torx wrench with me in the event they back out, but I don't think they will.
Cheers – Owen
-
Thanks, I agree, that sounds about right. And the same for the barrel plate, at least until we hear otherwise. I'm going to keep pushing Sako/Tikka/Beretta.
I just found out from my dealer my LH A1 won't be available until Aug/Sep. :-
Log in to reply.