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Rebarreling the action from 30-05 to 6.5 creedmoor
I was looking to Rebarrel my 30-06 later on down the road to a 6.5 creed but had a few questions before I even tried. Since all Tikkas have the same length action is it possible to go from long action to short action with just the bolt stop? Like this http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/bolt-parts/bolt-catch-parts/bolt-catches/release-bolt-assembly-tikka-t3-release-bolt-assembly-tikka-t3-sku913-400-677-31611-60090.aspx
Or is the bolt face diameter different? Also, I got my gun for cheap off an auction but it's the Non- Stainless version, is it still possible to Rebarrel with say a SS barrel onto my action? Seeing as it's not SS? Or is the only difference between the SS version and non-SS is the finish coatings and the materials/steel used for the actions the same? -
12 Replies
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Hi imho the barrel will be fine, 6.5 creedmoor is a great caliber just make sure you can get ammo / cases , I'm in England and trying to get Norma / Nosler brass is hard work , even importing it my self from the USA is hard going has most people are out of stock , I've been trying to find 150 cases of Norma / Nosler since October with no luck so far
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Hi imho the barrel will be fine, 6.5 creedmoor is a great caliber just make sure you can get ammo / cases , I'm in England and trying to get Norma / Nosler brass is hard work , even importing it my self from the USA is hard going has most people are out of stock , I've been trying to find 150 cases of Norma / Nosler since October with no luck so far
Would I have to seat the bullets out to max OAL when reloading for my long action to work? Or should I just get the bolt stop to fix that problem? And if so, would I have to alter the bolt face? More than likely I think I'll end up going with a 6.5×55 seeing as it's the same capability with a little more room to load them hotter. Any reason the 6.5creeds are used in target competitions more often other than them being short actions?
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Nothing wrong with 6.6 x 55 l shoot one now and again, just follow the reloading data for a modern rifle , has for the 6.5 Creedmoor it was designed from the ground up for long distance accuracy shoulder angle etc , but most of all get the caliber YOU want and not what somebody wants for you , when you've sorted the rifle and need advice on scopes then get back to me
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From what I've read, 6.5×55 isn't necessarily any hotter, but it definitely uses more powder. I just did some evaluation on these two calibers as I'm starting a new 6.5 build. I already had all of the components and tools for 6.5 Creedmoor from my last rifle, and I was deciding if it was worth re-tooling for added performance. In short, my personal assessment was that it wasn't. 6.5×55 may be bigger, but all that seems to do in this instance is use more space and powder to gain almost identical results and barrel life as the Creedmoor. Both tend to push a 140gr bullet right around 27xxfps at a reasonable charge/pressure level, but the Swede just uses more to do it.
To change from a .30-06 to a 6.5 creedmoor, all you will need is a short action bolt stop, and a short action magazine. Unless you carefully push all of the rounds in your L/A magazine to the very front each time, the bolt stop won't allow the bolt to travel back far enough to pick up a round. The bolt faces are exactly the same. 🙂
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If your planing on reloading I would look into 6.5×47 lapua. You can find brass and the brass last longer due to the neck and small primer pocket. This is the caliber I'm going to rebarrel my t3 to.
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From what I've read, 6.5×55 isn't necessarily any hotter, but it definitely uses more powder. I just did some evaluation on these two calibers as I'm starting a new 6.5 build. I already had all of the components and tools for 6.5 Creedmoor from my last rifle, and I was deciding if it was worth re-tooling for added performance. In short, my personal assessment was that it wasn't. 6.5×55 may be bigger, but all that seems to do in this instance is use more space and powder to gain almost identical results and barrel life as the Creedmoor. Both tend to push a 140gr bullet right around 27xxfps at a reasonable charge/pressure level, but the Swede just uses more to do it.
To change from a .30-06 to a 6.5 creedmoor, all you will need is a short action bolt stop, and a short action magazine. Unless you carefully push all of the rounds in your L/A magazine to the very front each time, the bolt stop won't allow the bolt to travel back far enough to pick up a round. The bolt faces are exactly the same. 🙂
Do you know where I can get a short action bolt stop? Brownells seems to be out of stock. I'll probably end up reloading anyways so would creedmoors be cheaper in the long run seeing as they use less powder? Or would 6.5×55 be cheaper since brass is easier to come by?
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SS barrel will be fine on your non-SS action. 6.5 Creed will give around 100 fps more velocity over 6.5×47 Lapua and would be my choice of the two. Nothing to chose between .260, 6.5 Creed and 6.5x55SE. Another great option would be .284 with your new barrel throated long for 168 VLDs or 162 A-Max/ELD. That way you could keep your long action bolt stop and mag and save on the ridiculous cost of both. Brass is easy to neck up from 6.5×284.
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Brownells says they are currently in stock -> http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/bolt-parts/bolt-catch-parts/bolt-catches/release-bolt-assembly-tikka-t3-prod31611.aspx
Creedmoor brass is pretty easy to get. Cabelas usually has it in-store, and Midway/Brownells/Grafs/Powder Valley usually has it as well. To my way of thinking, Hornady Creedmoor brass is less expensive than quality Swede brass (Lapua), and I've gotten an easy 9 firings on mine before the primer pockets wore out. That's not to say that it's necessarily on par with Lapua brass, but people have had good success with it.
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Lapua don't do Creedmoor, Norma do and when did you last try brownells?
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Brownells says they are currently in stock -> http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/bolt-parts/bolt-catch-parts/bolt-catches/release-bolt-assembly-tikka-t3-prod31611.aspx
Creedmoor brass is pretty easy to get. Cabelas usually has it in-store, and Midway/Brownells/Grafs/Powder Valley usually has it as well. To my way of thinking, Hornady Creedmoor brass is less expensive than quality Swede brass (Lapua), and I've gotten an easy 9 firings on mine before the primer pockets wore out. That's not to say that it's necessarily on par with Lapua brass, but people have had good success with it.
Yeah, they just went back into stock recently. I'll more than likely go with 6.5 creedmoor seeing as hornaday provides good factory ammo for the price till I get a reloading setup.
And yes, there isn't any lapua brass for creedmoor by the looks of it, just Norma and Hornady -
Lapua don't do Creedmoor, Norma do and when did you last try brownells?
Does anyone know if I can just mod my LA magazine to fit the creeds?
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You can just leave it long action. My wife's t3 7mm-08 is running long and it feeds just fine. Just slide the rounds to the back of the mag.
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