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New Tikka T3 Compact! – could use some input
Hello all,
first post, first Tikka. I got the Compact in 308 (im a short barrel fan, nicer for in the thick), as soon as i saw it in person was sold. i went to the store planing on walking out with a Tikka just didnt know if i was going to go for the compact or the fullsize.ive been eyeing the T3 for a few years, ended up buying the Rem700 AAC-SD last year which i absolutely love but that thing weighs a ton, and now with the trigger recall i just dont want to take it out to the bush on a 7 day hike, so it will be a target rifle(i never really ended up buying it proper glass yet either, just threw on a cheap scope i had kicking around) and the new T3 Compact will be the bushgun.
im trying to figure out which mounts i sould go wit, it seems like Optilock is everyones answer, but im curious why Leupold isnt on anyones radar? it seems to be a common mount for every other rifle and i know they make it for this 1.
im going to be probably going with a Leupold VX2 2-7 or VX3 2.5-8, i havent decided yet… the VX2 actual magnification is 2.5-6.8 i think i read so the VX3 really seems like the better choice for the extra $100 bucks.
any other optics i should look at?anyway, here it is fresh out of the box
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6 Replies
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New Tikka T3 Compact! – could use some input
updated 8 years, 5 months ago
4Members
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6
Replies
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Welcome to the site!
I have 2 tikkas, a hunter 30-06 and a sporter in .223. Great rifles!
I use the performance shop's gen 2 picatiny rails (+20 moa) combined with DNZ Freedom Reaper mounts. I can swap scopes between these rifles without re-leveling. I just loosen the 1/2 inch pic. Bolts and retorque them with my FAT wrench. I set the zero stop on my Viper PST so that I can still use it for both rifles. With the PST, the zero stop is more of a bottom limit, so you just set the stop a bit past zero andkeep track of the zero change between rifles, and zero the turret for that rifle from your records.The only drawback for this system is that the freedom reaper mounts are higher than I need.
Good luck!
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… im trying to figure out which mounts i sould go wit, it seems like Optilock is everyones answer…
… I just posted something related to this in the “Equipment Reviews,” check it out. I now have two removable mounts, one with Leupold VX-II 1-4×20, the other (now) with Nikon Prostaff 4-12×40. First for hunting, the second for plinking at a distance (if you can call it that with a 308 Win… .)
TJ
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Between my Daughter and me, we have three Tikkas and use DNZ mounts and Limbsaver recoil pads on all of them.
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i ended up ordering a Leupold VX2 and Optilock rings and bases.
im kinda curious why the pin in the optilock bases is much smaller than the drilled hole in the receiver?
i assume i mount it with the pin in the hole and pressed as far back as possible? -
i ended up ordering a Leupold VX2 and Optilock rings and bases.
im kinda curious why the pin in the optilock bases is much smaller than the drilled hole in the receiver?
i assume i mount it with the pin in the hole and pressed as far back as possible?Good choice on the scope and mounts (btw, a quick “no thanks” on CGN would've been polite…)
As to the recoil stop pin, it's diameter is fine as-is. However, push the front mount base FORWARD as you install it. I hope the following description will help:
The fired bullet and the burning gases propelling it result in a force driving the rifle backwards (towards the shooter.) The optics and the mount each have their own mass, which want to “stay put.” This results in a force “pushing” the optics and the mount forward. However, these will start moving backwards as well. As the shooter absorbs the recoil, both the optics and the mount remain mass in motion backwards. This secondary inertia is much less than the initial force, so it puts less strain on the contact surfaces between the rifle and the mount, and the mount and the scope tube.
The pin is there to deal with the with forces stemming from the first motion only, and it does not need to be a “tight” fit. So, when you install the front mount, put forward pressure to it with your thumb, then tighten the mount screw to the recommended torque settings. As to the mount screws, they have to be tight, but do not over-tighten them either.
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i ended up ordering a Leupold VX2 and Optilock rings and bases.
im kinda curious why the pin in the optilock bases is much smaller than the drilled hole in the receiver?
i assume i mount it with the pin in the hole and pressed as far back as possible?Good choice on the scope and mounts (btw, a quick “no thanks” on CGN would've been polite…)
As to the recoil stop pin, it's diameter is fine as-is. However, push the front mount base FORWARD as you install it. I hope the following description will help:
The fired bullet and the burning gases propelling it result in a force driving the rifle backwards (towards the shooter.) The optics and the mount each have their own mass, which want to “stay put.” This results in a force “pushing” the optics and the mount forward. However, these will start moving backwards as well. As the shooter absorbs the recoil, both the optics and the mount remain mass in motion backwards. This secondary inertia is much less than the initial force, so it puts less strain on the contact surfaces between the rifle and the mount, and the mount and the scope tube.
The pin is there to deal with the with forces stemming from the first motion only, and it does not need to be a “tight” fit. So, when you install the front mount, put forward pressure to it with your thumb, then tighten the mount screw to the recommended torque settings. As to the mount screws, they have to be tight, but do not over-tighten them either.
thanks for the mounting advice, ive got her all together now.
not sure who you are on CGN, but i decided it was just better to buy everything bran new for this setup, also got everything on sale and i saved quite a bit over canadian list price on everything.
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