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New member here. Wondering about a 223
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Weird….Just found out that it is not threaded.
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Might be that I'm in England, they may differ I suppose
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In Europe you can choose , each and every cal , whether with a threaded or unthreaded and on most cases you can choose the barrel length too. Weird if not in US .. 🙁
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beretta USA doesn't really care much about products that aren't $10k+ shotguns. They carry them because they have to, but don't put a lot of effort or thought into it.
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Ordered a t3 varmint in .223 with Berserk stock last night and having the barrel threaded. Can't wait!!!
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You won't be disappointed!
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Thanks Eric and everyone else that added their advice/opinions to this thread!
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Once my rifle arrives what is a good bullet (s) to try for 100-300yrds? I know I'll have to go with a heavy round when I eventually get out over 500yrds but not sure what I should start with for zeroing scope and just practicing on paper that won't break the bank
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Hi Lakehouse, with the 1:8 your choices are wide open. I have accumulated a variety of bullets for my .223. I keep an eye out for sales and if one looks good I buy a few (few hundred sometimes lol). I picked up some normally expensive 65 gr JLK's from an estate sale, but in general I like to try several brands and weights so I can develop load data for a varmint load and long range load.
There is a good thread on accurate shooter forum on load development at 100 yards started by Erik Cortina that I follow when I test bullets and powder combinations that has saved me a good deal of components. It always helps to have a plan at the range. What I like to do breaks down something like this:
1. research a bullet/powder combination and make up a target board with enough bullseyes to pattern each load.
2. For a given bullet, start with a load 1 or 2 grains below the expected best load, seating bullets about .010 off the lands (or load to a COAL that gives a decent grip on the bullet when using short bullets).
3. load up 4 rounds of your starting powder weight and then load 4 more increasing the powder weight 0.3 grains, then 4 more at an additional 0.3 grains and so on until you have 4 rounds for each increment up to the max you wish to try (I usually go past my expected target weight by up to a grain).
4. At the range, fire 1 round from each powder weight – paying attention to pressure signs- and stop when pressure signs indicate max load for this bullet/powder/seating depth combination. These test rounds are handy to zero your scope on a practice target so you will be very close to the bullseye. Once you determine the max load, collect any rounds you loaded with more powder and put them away for later pulling and component recovery.
5. Now for the fun…Keeping track of which target you shoot with a given load, fire a series of 3 shot groups progressing through the various loads. It is helpful to shoot these over a chronograph and record the data for each shot. Allow cooling time between groups and keep the brass from each load together for inspection later. Some guys like to “round robin” this part but I find it too confusing and unnecessary, particularly if you have to stop before your finished since on your next outing the weather will be different.
6. Back at home look at the targets and you should see the center of the groups change elevation from group to group. What you are looking for is 2 or more consecutive groups that print at about the same elevation. These same-elevation consecutive groups indicate a “node” where the performance is stable and not sensitive to small changes in powder charge. If you find a good stable node, then look at the chrono numbers and if the extreme velocity spread is acceptable, you can select the powder weight that is in the middle of that node. (ex. if you find a node bracketed by 23.9 and 24.5 I would continue development using 24.2 grains of that powder).
7. now that you have found a stable powder charge, you can start tuning the load by adjusting the seating depth. This part gets a bit fussy sometimes and if your accuracy is good at .010 off the lands (or whatever you used) then you are more or less done with basic load development and you can load up a bunch of rounds and go have fun!
This was a VERY cursory summary of my load development routine and I can't really do it justice here.
I encourage you to read the thread
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/long-range-load-development-at-100-yards.3814361/
starting at the beginning (you don't have to read the whole thing since its 94 pages long lol.)
After a few pages of reading you will have a good handle on what we are looking for.Sorry for the long post, Have fun!
-Eric -
Ordered a t3 varmint in .223 with Berserk stock last night and having the barrel threaded. Can't wait!!!
Great stuff. A superb rifle and a fun round too 🙂
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Once my rifle arrives what is a good bullet (s) to try for 100-300yrds? I know I'll have to go with a heavy round when I eventually get out over 500yrds but not sure what I should start with for zeroing scope and just practicing on paper that won't break the bank
If you go for factory loaded ammo then most marquee 55gr ammo will do well at least upto 200 meters /219 yards.
If you´re talking about BR accuracy , i go for Lapua Scenar 69 gr. The best , of course , would be the re-load option and like Eric just described seeking for the optimal load/bullet etc – for your gun – is essential.
I will start to reload ammo myself and since i´m a noob on that field i´ll soon bother the in-the-know crowd here 😉 -
My next scope will probably be a Sightron STAC 4-20 which I don't have a lot of feedback on yet, but the price is right.
Btw, the SWFA ss-Tac mounts are also a great value, I lapped mine and the wear pattern was 90% almost immediately – much better fit than my DNZ freedom reaper mount (not saying one is better than the other just that even pricey mounts can need lapping).
Hey Eric,
On the ss tac mounts, (paired with the sightron stac 4-20, would the “low” mounts work? -
Hi Lakehouse, with the 1:8 your choices are wide open. I have accumulated a variety of bullets for my .223. I keep an eye out for sales and if one looks good I buy a few (few hundred sometimes lol). I picked up some normally expensive 65 gr JLK's from an estate sale, but in general I like to try several brands and weights so I can develop load data for a varmint load and long range load.
There is a good thread on accurate shooter forum on load development at 100 yards started by Erik Cortina that I follow when I test bullets and powder combinations that has saved me a good deal of components. It always helps to have a plan at the range. What I like to do breaks down something like this:
1. research a bullet/powder combination and make up a target board with enough bullseyes to pattern each load.
2. For a given bullet, start with a load 1 or 2 grains below the expected best load, seating bullets about .010 off the lands (or load to a COAL that gives a decent grip on the bullet when using short bullets).
3. load up 4 rounds of your starting powder weight and then load 4 more increasing the powder weight 0.3 grains, then 4 more at an additional 0.3 grains and so on until you have 4 rounds for each increment up to the max you wish to try (I usually go past my expected target weight by up to a grain).
4. At the range, fire 1 round from each powder weight – paying attention to pressure signs- and stop when pressure signs indicate max load for this bullet/powder/seating depth combination. These test rounds are handy to zero your scope on a practice target so you will be very close to the bullseye. Once you determine the max load, collect any rounds you loaded with more powder and put them away for later pulling and component recovery.
5. Now for the fun…Keeping track of which target you shoot with a given load, fire a series of 3 shot groups progressing through the various loads. It is helpful to shoot these over a chronograph and record the data for each shot. Allow cooling time between groups and keep the brass from each load together for inspection later. Some guys like to “round robin” this part but I find it too confusing and unnecessary, particularly if you have to stop before your finished since on your next outing the weather will be different.
6. Back at home look at the targets and you should see the center of the groups change elevation from group to group. What you are looking for is 2 or more consecutive groups that print at about the same elevation. These same-elevation consecutive groups indicate a “node” where the performance is stable and not sensitive to small changes in powder charge. If you find a good stable node, then look at the chrono numbers and if the extreme velocity spread is acceptable, you can select the powder weight that is in the middle of that node. (ex. if you find a node bracketed by 23.9 and 24.5 I would continue development using 24.2 grains of that powder).
7. now that you have found a stable powder charge, you can start tuning the load by adjusting the seating depth. This part gets a bit fussy sometimes and if your accuracy is good at .010 off the lands (or whatever you used) then you are more or less done with basic load development and you can load up a bunch of rounds and go have fun!
This was a VERY cursory summary of my load development routine and I can't really do it justice here.
I encourage you to read the thread
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/long-range-load-development-at-100-yards.3814361/
starting at the beginning (you don't have to read the whole thing since its 94 pages long lol.)
After a few pages of reading you will have a good handle on what we are looking for.Sorry for the long post, Have fun!
-EricGREAT info Eric! Thank you! I'll check out that thread
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Once my rifle arrives what is a good bullet (s) to try for 100-300yrds? I know I'll have to go with a heavy round when I eventually get out over 500yrds but not sure what I should start with for zeroing scope and just practicing on paper that won't break the bank
If you go for factory loaded ammo then most marquee 55gr ammo will do well at least upto 200 meters /219 yards.
If you´re talking about BR accuracy , i go for Lapua Scenar 69 gr. The best , of course , would be the re-load option and like Eric just described seeking for the optimal load/bullet etc – for your gun – is essential.
I will start to reload ammo myself and since i´m a noob on that field i´ll soon bother the in-the-know crowd here 😉Probably a dumb question but what is “marquee” ammo?
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I don't know for sure if the low ss tac rings and stac 4-20 combination will clear the front bell on a heavy barrel, I am guessing it will but you may have to check the numbers a bit. Remember I have not personally used the Sightron yet, but their other products and generally good reviews give me a positive impression. I did read one negative that had to do with a broken/defective from the factory stac and a retailer with poor customer service.
Anyway, have fun with the research and good luck on a speedy delivery.
btw, I think “marquee” ammo would probably be the stuff the store advertises on it's marquee to bring in the bargain hunters, i.e. inexpensive “plinking” ammo.
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