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New member here. Wondering about a 223
Ericbc7 replied 7 years, 10 months ago 7 Members · 54 Replies
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1 Bullseye
Froglube is great for ARs and pistols, and it smells great, but I personally prefer a heavy grease for my bolt guns. Thinner/lighter lubricants can allow the lugs to gall over time. Most bolt guns prefer to be pretty dry, in my experience. I put a dab of grease behind each bolt lug, and on the cocking ramp, then another little dab on the raceway. Oil isn't thick enough for this application, and it attracts dirt. As far as the bore goes, don't feel like you have to scrub it every time you shoot it. For precision rifles it's generally best to leave a little fouling in there. Unless accuracy starts to drop off, you probably don't need to clean the bore more than every 3-500 rounds. Your rifle will tell you. Some really high end barrels like to be cleaned even less frequently than that!
The only cleaners/lubricants that I use on my bolt guns are Butch's bore shine, hi-slip moly grease for the lugs, and some generic light gun oil for after I deep-clean the bore every few hundred rounds. A nylon brush for the chamber can be helpful, and a quality brass jag for the bore. Get a one piece cleaning rod and a bore guide, and you're set.
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21 Bullseyes
The only cleaners/lubricants that I use on my bolt guns are Butch's bore shine, hi-slip moly grease for the lugs, and some generic light gun oil for after I deep-clean the bore every few hundred rounds. A nylon brush for the chamber can be helpful, and a quality brass jag for the bore. Get a one piece cleaning rod and a bore guide, and you're set.
+1
I do experiment with other products but butch's is a favorite of mine (I use Boretech extreeme eliminator for the barrels through which I shoot moly coated bullets). -
1 Bullseye
Thanks guys. That helps a ton.
As far as storing, bolt in or bolt out or bolt closed? If closed, can you hold the trigger down while closing the bolt to keep uncocked?
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21 Bullseyes
Yep, lower the bolt handle on an empty chamber while pulling the trigger to unload the firing pin spring.
If I store the bolt separately I will manually twist the shroud to de-cock the firing pin spring, you may need the plastic wrench tikka includes with the Sporters (or something similar if you have a MT bolt shroud) to re-cock the bolt before you put it back in the rifle. You might be able to rotate the shroud back to cocked position with your fingers if you have the hand strength.
– Eric
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1 Bullseye
Well I decided against the Sightron stac and ordered a Burris xtr II in 8-40×50 moa f-class reticle with a 36 tube.
My question is will the 1″ Burris XTreme Tactical rings be tall enough for my 20moa rail and clear bolt and Burris caps or do I need the 1.5 inch ones? I want it as low as possible.
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6 Bullseyes
The only cleaners/lubricants that I use on my bolt guns are Butch's bore shine, hi-slip moly grease for the lugs, and some generic light gun oil for after I deep-clean the bore every few hundred rounds. A nylon brush for the chamber can be helpful, and a quality brass jag for the bore. Get a one piece cleaning rod and a bore guide, and you're set.
+1
I do experiment with other products but butch's is a favorite of mine (I use Boretech extreeme eliminator for the barrels through which I shoot moly coated bullets).I´m pretty much in the same Boat .. 😉
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21 Bullseyes
I would think the 1″ high rings should work. The rail raises everything up a bit – 50 mm objective is usually easy and the Burris tactical rings are hard to find in short versions. I am not familiar with the scope you chose,b but keep us posted on your experience with it!
-Eric
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