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Help me decide how to build a T3 Sporter.
In the near future I'm going to be acquiring a T3 Sporter 24″ in 6.5×55 Sweede.
The rifle will predominantly be used for long range precision work out to about 1200m with a goal of keeping <1 moa.
I plan on having the bolt and barrel fluted for the purpose of lighter weight while still retaining stiffness, cooling, and of course looks.
Also, I will have it threaded for a break/suppressor.
I've never sent anything off for gunsmithing work and I plan to use Longrifles, Inc out of Sturgis, SD.
As of right now the plan is a Spuhr TRG mount with an undecided optic, but something in the flavor of 5-25×56 FFP h59 reticle and <$2k
I'll most likely be using Redding Competition reloading dies and undecided on a good single stage press, currently my reloading setup consists of a Hornady AP which is set up for volume, I'd like to get a single stage for more precise loading.Are there any flaws to my plan as of yet?
Anything you guys think I should do differently?
Suggestions for a scope, gunsmith, or reloading components?
I appreciate any comments/suggestions/criticism.-NateK
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8 Replies
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Help me decide how to build a T3 Sporter.
updated 9 years ago
7Members
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8
Replies
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Hi NateK
Are you going to use the factory barrel? The .260 Rem. IMP. may be a little better. I use a Hornady Classc Single press,it does great for me,Neil Jones dies,nothing wrong with Redding. Everything else sounds good to me. By the way I have 3–595 Tikka customs,a T3 custom,and a factory T3,love em all.s
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Are you going to do something different in the stock department?
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The plan is to use the factory Sporter stock and factory barrel.
Part of the reasoning behind 6.5 Swede is when I shoot the barrel out I will most likely rebarrel to another long action cartridge and the Swede has a slight advantage over the 260 when properly reloaded from what I can gather, I'm also trying to work myself up to getting used to the longer throw of a long action magnum bolt for future use.
I may be making some slight modifications to the stock to suit my preferences such as sling attachment points and/or minor reshaping, it will get a steel recoil lug and bedded at some point as well.
I already own a blued 595 in 7mm-08 as a hunting rifle and I love it!
My brother has an identical 595 in stainless and a 20″ T3 Varmint in .308 that's set up for precision work. -
1) Are there any flaws to my plan as of yet? Anything you guys think I should do differently?
2) Suggestions for a scope, gunsmith, or reloading components?
3) I appreciate any comments/suggestions/criticism.-NateK
1) Fluting is a waste of money, and weight you need for shooting LR. Spend the fluting money on a good bedding job.
2) NightForce NXS 5.5-22 out to 600, NXS 8-32 out to 1,000 and beyond. And…2nd focal plane for LR target shooting.
Gordy Gritters–Gordy's Gunsmith Shop for the bedding.
3) No prob on the advice…it's free! ;D
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I also would skip the fluting
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What kind of rifling does the factory barrel have?
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1) Are there any flaws to my plan as of yet? Anything you guys think I should do differently?
2) Suggestions for a scope, gunsmith, or reloading components?
3) I appreciate any comments/suggestions/criticism.-NateK
1) Fluting is a waste of money, and weight you need for shooting LR. Spend the fluting money on a good bedding job.
2) NightForce NXS 5.5-22 out to 600, NXS 8-32 out to 1,000 and beyond. And…2nd focal plane for LR target shooting.
Gordy Gritters–Gordy's Gunsmith Shop for the bedding.
3) No prob on the advice…it's free! ;D
In regards to the optics,
I run a 5.5-22×56 Nightforce on my Sako TRG and have often shot at the 1k Mark. I don't consider it a handicap. If you were only going to be shooting a single discipline that would be one thing, but if you intend to use your rifle as a more general purpose long range shooter, I would roll with the 5.5×22.
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In the near future I'm going to be acquiring a T3 Sporter 24″ in 6.5×55 Sweede.
The rifle will predominantly be used for long range precision work out to about 1200m with a goal of keeping <1 moa.
I plan on having the bolt and barrel fluted for the purpose of lighter weight while still retaining stiffness, cooling, and of course looks.
Also, I will have it threaded for a break/suppressor.
I've never sent anything off for gunsmithing work and I plan to use Longrifles, Inc out of Sturgis, SD.
As of right now the plan is a Spuhr TRG mount with an undecided optic, but something in the flavor of 5-25×56 FFP h59 reticle and <$2k
I'll most likely be using Redding Competition reloading dies and undecided on a good single stage press, currently my reloading setup consists of a Hornady AP which is set up for volume, I'd like to get a single stage for more precise loading.Are there any flaws to my plan as of yet?
Anything you guys think I should do differently?
Suggestions for a scope, gunsmith, or reloading components?
I appreciate any comments/suggestions/criticism.-NateK
does a spuhr trg mount fit a tikka rail?
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