[Lakehouse]

Well I decided against the Sightron stac and ordered a Burris xtr II in 8-40×50 moa f-class reticle with a 36 tube.

My question is will the 1″ Burris XTreme Tactical rings be tall enough for my 20moa rail and clear bolt and Burris caps or do I need the 1.5 inch ones?  I want it as low as possible.

[Lakehouse]

Thanks Eric

[Lakehouse]

Thanks guys.  That helps a ton.

As far as storing, bolt in or bolt out or bolt closed?  If closed, can you hold the trigger down while closing the bolt to keep uncocked?

[Lakehouse]

Witt Machine makes an inexpensive brake that I used on my 30-06 (clamp on style). It was very effective if a little bit bulky.  They make a thread on version also:
http://wittmachine.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=182&zenid=h4jgbcl0l881lt7pc13mink4h0

They supply crush washers to time the brake (since it vents on top and sides but not bottom).

I just ordered a brake from mountain tactical for my -06 since I was having the barrel threaded anyway.

There is a fella on accurate shooter forum that has done some good testing on the brakes he sells user name IdahoCTD here is his page:http://www.muzzlebrakesandmore.com/Home_Page.php
Very good prices on his brakes if I recall.

I mention these other manufactures in case you want a directional brake rather than the radial one MT offers.

Thanks for the links.  The Witt machines are the same price as the  muzzlebrakesandmore so I think I'll contact that member and order one as I've read good reviews on his stuff.  It looks like I'll need to have a gunsmith install it though unless I invest in a vise as all the install videos I've watched show that it's needed. 

[Lakehouse]

Check out Lantac's Dragon brake

Those look really nice! But a bit more than I wanted to spend as I really want something temporary while I save for a suppressor

[Lakehouse]

Sounds good.  Thank you.

[Lakehouse]

Don't drag the brush back through, take it off you'll only drag crap back into the barrel, the only thing that needs to come back is the cleaning rod itself

Makes sense. 
With so many cleaners out there, is Hopps #9 cleaner and the lubricating oil, all I need?  Also, is a mop needed and if so, when in the steps is that used?

[Lakehouse]

My rifle arrived yesterday and it's a beauty! 

I'm still on the backorder list for the Sightron stac 4-20×50 MOA.  Not sure when this thing is ever going to be in stock.  Lol
While waiting, I've also been looking at the Burris Exterminator iii with rangefinder and the Burris xtr.  Both considerably more money but have heard good things about both.

In regards to cleaning the Tikka, is this the correct process:
1- remove bolt and wipe down with cleaner and wipe clean bolt with a rag with a bit of oil on it.
2- get a brass brush, dip in cleaner, run through bore from rear till it comes out the front and pull back to the rear and remove.
3- wait a couple min
4- run (dry?) patches through till they come out clean.
5a- if storing for an extended time, run a patch through with a drop of lube
5b- if not storing away, you're done with barrel
6- clean action and add a drop of lube on each rail for bolt.

Am I missing anything?  Excuse the basic questions but this is my first rifle and want to take care of it properly.

Also, I had the barrel threaded and until I get a can on it, I want to get a thread protector.  It's threaded at 1/2-28 (varmint)but not sure how long and outside diameter I should look for.  When I do install one, should I put a drop of lube on it or just install it dry?

Anyway, again it's a beauty and can't wait to take it out and have some fun.

[Lakehouse]

Ok thanks.  It just threw me off when I saw the description that said “bullet length= .851″ and ” not loaded ammunition “.  See this link:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1758211174/nosler-ballistic-tip-varmint-bullets-22-caliber-224-diameter-60-grain-spitzer-boat-tail

I just assumed that these boat-tail were just the top half of the bullet and meant to be pressed onto a bottom-half/ cassing. 

[Lakehouse]

I'm beginning to think I'm an idiot. Lol
Correct me if I'm wrong but are all the ones I listed above NOT live ammo?  As a complete newbie, I thought they were and just looked “funny/different ” but after reading reviews they seem to be for reloading.
Sooo…..
Back to searching for some LIVE ammo that I can buy/order online to try until I take the plunge into reloading my own. 
Shall I just try anything that is for .223 and with a grain of 55-70?

[Lakehouse]

Since I'm not reloading (as of yet) and am looking for different bullets to try when my t3 varmint .223 arrives, here are some ones I've found that I think I'll try.

Hornady AMAX 75g boat tail
Lapua Scenar 69g hollow point boat tail
Nosler 55g&60g Spitzer boat tail
Hornady Vmax 53g boat tail

Obviously all boat tail.  Should I try flat bottom as well?  If so, recommendations?  Are boat tail more accurate and stabalize better?  Just looking for target practice at local range which is up to 200yrds till I join the local club and can utilize their range which goes out to 1k yrds.

[Lakehouse]

Thanks Larkin!

[Lakehouse]

Yeah I'll have to see what I can find out on the low rings as far as dimensions in regards to the heavy barrel.  I assume the lower you can get the optic to the barrel the better?

I think I've read just about every review that I can find on that scope on the retailers and forums site and like you said, 99% of them are positive except 1 that I too found.  It was actually the way Sightron handled his return for a “rattle” on the scope which was there when he received it.  My current budget only allows for this or the swfa ss 10x fixed and the more I look into it, the more I think I'd like more zoom power.  I'm not sure if swfa makes a ss in a 20 (fixed or adjustable ) in moa/moa, and if it's in my price range if they do.  I'll look into it, but as of today, the Sightron is my choice.

[Lakehouse]

Once my rifle arrives what is a good bullet (s) to try for 100-300yrds?  I know I'll have to go with a heavy round when I eventually get out over 500yrds but not sure what I should start with for zeroing scope and just practicing on paper that won't break the bank

If you go for factory loaded ammo then most marquee 55gr ammo will do well at least upto 200 meters /219 yards.
If you´re talking about BR accuracy , i go for Lapua Scenar 69 gr. The best , of course , would be the re-load option and like Eric just described seeking for the optimal load/bullet etc – for your gun – is essential.
I will start to reload ammo myself and since i´m a noob on that field i´ll soon bother the in-the-know crowd here 😉

Probably a dumb question but what is “marquee” ammo?

[Lakehouse]

Hi Lakehouse, with the 1:8 your choices are wide open.  I have accumulated a variety of bullets for my .223.  I keep an eye out for sales and if one looks good I buy a few (few hundred sometimes lol).  I picked up some normally expensive 65 gr JLK's from an estate sale, but in general I like to try several brands and weights so I can develop load data for a varmint load and long range load.

There is a good thread on accurate shooter forum on load development at 100 yards started by Erik Cortina that I follow when I test bullets and powder combinations that has saved me a good deal of components.  It always helps to have a plan at the range. What I like to do breaks down something like this:

1. research a bullet/powder combination and make up a target board with enough bullseyes to pattern each load.

2. For a given bullet, start with a load 1 or 2 grains below the expected best load, seating bullets about .010 off the lands (or load to a COAL that gives a decent grip on the bullet when using short bullets).

3. load up 4 rounds of your starting powder weight and then load 4 more increasing the powder weight 0.3 grains, then 4 more at an additional 0.3 grains and so on until you have 4 rounds for each increment up to the max you wish to try (I usually go past my expected target weight by up to a grain).

4. At the range, fire 1 round from each powder weight – paying attention to pressure signs- and stop when pressure signs indicate max load for this bullet/powder/seating depth combination.  These test rounds are handy to zero your scope on a practice target so you will be very close to the bullseye.  Once you determine the max load, collect any rounds you loaded with more powder and put them away for later pulling and component recovery.

5. Now for the fun…Keeping track of which target you shoot with a given load, fire a series of 3 shot groups progressing through the various loads.  It is helpful to shoot these over a chronograph and record the data for each shot.  Allow cooling time between groups and keep the brass from each load together for inspection later.  Some guys like to “round robin” this part but I find it too confusing and unnecessary, particularly if you have to stop before your finished since on your next outing the weather will be different.

6. Back at home look at the targets and you should see the center of the groups change elevation from group to group.  What you are looking for is 2 or more consecutive groups that print at about the same elevation.  These same-elevation consecutive groups indicate a “node” where the performance is stable and not sensitive to small changes in powder charge.  If you find a good stable node, then look at the chrono numbers and if the extreme velocity spread is acceptable, you can select the powder weight that is in the middle of that node. (ex. if you find a node bracketed by 23.9 and 24.5 I would continue development using 24.2 grains of that powder).

7.  now that you have found a stable powder charge, you can start tuning the load by adjusting the seating depth.  This part gets a bit fussy sometimes and if your accuracy is good at .010 off the lands (or whatever you used) then you are more or less done with basic load development and you can load up a bunch of rounds and go have fun!

This was a VERY cursory summary of my load development routine and I can't really do it justice here. 
I encourage you to read the thread
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/long-range-load-development-at-100-yards.3814361/
starting at the beginning (you don't have to read the whole thing since its 94 pages long lol.)
After a few pages of reading you will have a good handle on what we are looking for.

Sorry for the long post, Have fun!
-Eric

GREAT info Eric!  Thank you!  I'll check out that thread