[J]

I think this has been covered several times. Look at Nathan Foster's Terminal Ballistics Research NZ website and YouTube vids as he covers this in much detail. You do have a recoil lug, but it is not of the traditional integrated style and sits in a recess in the stock.

[J]

I might be interested in trading you the bolt from my 300WSM…

Hi Robert,

Thanks for the (potential) offer, but my .25-06 barrel still has lots of life left in it, so this my SAUM ideas are far from fruition at this stage.

Thanks too for those of you who have replied so far.

[J]

Perhaps, but I am looking at the GAP 4S version, which is claimed to get over 2000 rds per barrel. Even if that's not quite achiveable, I have several rifles, so this one would only get though perhaps 100 a year, so 1000 rds barrel life is still 10 or so years worth for me, so I'm not concerned. I would probably get bored and re-barrel to a different calibre before that anyway 🙂

[J]

Muleytime,

The T3 stock is actually very good (and easy) to bed, so don't worry about it. They get a hard time, but they are very stiff and a do a good job even before they are bedded. The job will benefit from stabilising the diamond areas in the base of the stock under the barrel with epoxy and this will give you a good base on which to glass bed the first inch or so of the barrel. With the barrel weight supported in this way, and the rest of the action bedded, removing the pressure point bedding tabs will be fine.

It's best to leave the tabs until after bedding as they act as your front height reference point. The rear reference point is the small flat area at the front of the tang area of the stock. When bedding it makes a better job if you also fill the small voids in the stock with epoxy, especially if you are also pillar bedding as it further strengthens and stabilises the whole job.

[J]

Have a look at Terminal Ballistics Research NZ.  Nathan Foster on there has lots of good advice on pillar and glass bedding rifles with this type of separate lug. He has YouTube vids that show you how to do it and has written a book containing this detail. Essentially, the lug is lightly epoxied in the action recess then glass bedded in the normal way. When the job dries, the epoxy breaks off and the lug is left bedded in your bedding material in the stock. This ensures correct fit and alignment.

You will need to mask off the bottom (the bit that meets the action), sides and rear of the lug to relieve them. Masking the rear of the lug is the opposite side than when doing a traditional integrated lug. I have done a couple and it's not that hard. If you want an easier, less intimidating job, just front and rear bed the action and the first inch or so of the barrel. I also fitted brass pillars by drilling my plastic stock action screw holes with a 3/8 bit and bedding home made brass pillars with Devcon Liquid Steel. Not sure about a 695, but with a T3 the pillars need to be slightly long in the mag well area to ensure correct fit with the trigger guard unit in the action screw area.

Good luck.

[J]

Hi Al,

Thanks for the reply. I cannot see a PM button, so would you mind emailing me when you have time please?

Thanks
J

[J]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Yukonal – I'm not really sure what they are worth, but I would like to have one. If you have a spare I am a serious buyer and this item will be a small cost compared to the donor rifle, stock, new barrel and 'smithing work. By the way, do you do your own work, or do you have someone else do it? I ask as your .284 build is pretty much exactly what I am after.

Cheers
J