[Ericbc7]

The only credible (to me anyway) reason to avoid bronze brushes is that aggressive copper solvents can attack the brush and leave green stains on subsequent patches which can be mistaken for an indication of copper fouling in your bore. 
Personally, I use bronze brushes regularly, although I do try to avoid reversing stroke before the brush clears the muzzle.

shooters can eliminate most cleaning wear and damage by cleaning from the breech, using a bore guide and long-shank jags and brushes that closely fit the bore diameter.  I think you are more likely to damage the barrel's crown with universal cleaning rods that are undersized and allow the back of the jag to “catch” the crown when you withdraw the bare jag (the patch having dropped at the muzzle).

[Ericbc7]

Welcome to the site!
I have 2 tikkas, a hunter 30-06 and a sporter in .223.  Great rifles!
I use the performance shop's gen 2 picatiny rails (+20 moa) combined with DNZ Freedom Reaper mounts.  I can swap scopes between these rifles without re-leveling. I just loosen the 1/2 inch pic. Bolts and retorque them with my FAT wrench.  I set the zero stop on my Viper PST so that I can still use it for both rifles.  With the PST, the zero stop is more of a bottom limit, so you just set the stop a bit past zero andkeep track of the zero change between rifles, and zero the turret for that rifle from your records.

The only drawback for this system is that the freedom reaper mounts are higher than I need.

Good luck!

[Ericbc7]

If you see a gap between the rail and the receiver top then either some of the mounting screws are loose or the rail itself is bent (less likely).  I would totally remove the rail, check it for flatness, clean the receiver & rail and, assuming it is indeed straight, re-attach the rail with a dab of removable thread locking compound on the screws.  I forget the torque specs (something like 15-20 in-lbs) but the specs are available elsewhere on this forum or Google it.
If the rail got bent somehow, I wouldn't try to straighten it but would replace it with the performance shop Elite Gen II hardened steel rail.  It would be a big challenge to bend that one!
Good luck
-Eric

[Ericbc7]

While adding a brake or sound moderator nearly always changes the point of impact, its not uncommon for groups to also tighten up. 

[Ericbc7]

SWFA SS10X42 retails for $299.95 and is possibly the best value in quality tactical scopes available.  It's a very tough, single power, mill dot scope with great reviews.  The lack of variable power is not a problem for me since fewer lens elements tend to make for a brighter image.  This model scope is available in 6X, 10X, 12X, 16X and 20X, but the higher magnifications exhibit some image issues due to non apochromatic glass.  As I understand it, apochromatic glass corrects the problem of different wavelengths of light focusing at slightly different focal points which makes an image blurry regardless of how you focus.  The effect is increased with higher magnification and you certainly won't find apo glass anywhere close to this price range.
In this model series I would not go higher than 12X unless you are going to be target range shooting with good contrasting targets.  The 10X is a good compromise between field of view and long range clarity and ability.
What ever scope you choose I heartily recommend the new elite gen II picatiny base from the performance shop.  I mounted one on my Tikka T3 Sporter and it gives you a lot of ring options.  You wont need the +20 moa base with SS10X42 since it has a huge adjustment range.  Short rings should be fine for this scope along with the Elite gen II pic base.

[Ericbc7]

Thanks for the tip, I'll see if I can see where it's hanging up.

Followup:  Great advice!! Turns out it wasn't the spring but rough finish on the inside that was the problem. I took apart the mag and sanded the burrs inside the mag and on the follower and now the magazine takes 6 rounds properly !! Thanks again 🙂

[Ericbc7]

These groups were shot as part of my OCW (optimum charge weight) load development for my Tikka T3 Hunter in 30-06.  The extreme spreads on the velocities was quite high, so I am changing primers and plan to re run the test.  I also plan to shoot off of a sandbag instead of a bipod next time.  I expect things to tighten up after I settle on a charge weight and seating depth.

[Ericbc7]

I hope you got the problem solved !  My problem is that the 6 round mag on my new Tikka T3 Sporter .223 will only take 3 rounds… I'll take it apart and see if i have the spring properly seated.

Ah interesting, after taking apart the apparent 6 shot magazine, I see that is indeed a 3 shot capacity (judging by the back plate).  What genius in Finland thought “hey lets take a 6 round magazine off the shelf, keep it the same size but limit it to 3 rounds…”?

I thought I could live with the OEM 6 round magazines, but after seeing this I've decided to save for the CDI bottom metal and installation.

[Ericbc7]

Congratulations on your new rifle!
Here in the U.S. One of the best values for a precision tactical scope is the SWFA SS 10X42.  It is available online for $299.95 (usd).
I don't know how available this scope is where you live but if you can live without variable power, I believe you will be very happy with this scope.

Good luck and good shooting!

For a good evaluation of several tactical scopes look at the following YouTube video:
Author: TiborasaurusRex
Title: SNIPER 101 Part 22 – Scopes – Rex's BEST Picks

[Ericbc7]

Looks first rate!

[Ericbc7]

I am not familiar with the 595 sporter – I just bought a new t-3 sporter and am very keen to get it to the range !
Good luck  🙂

[Ericbc7]

I would love one that handles .223 with a 2.60 cartridge length ! If i recall, the AI mags allow 2.55.
Let me know what you come up with.

[Ericbc7]

You wouldn't have to scrap the stock, even if the factory mag problem is unsolvable CDI can fit their bottom metal on the sporter (see CDI Tikka short action photos).

[Ericbc7]

what is the color pattern on the stock? very impressive!

[Ericbc7]

Very nice set up !