[wizard]

Make sure to bed your action properly before using the GRS.
One guy I know of didn't bed his action last week and the stock cracked due to poorly fitted action/touching barrel/user error.

Apart from that this is a GREAT stock that's been around in Scandinavia for a while.
Good value for money I must say!

If they'd integrate a picatinny rail for bipods it'd be even better 😉

[wizard]

I just changed my bolt shroud and I had the same effect as you're describing…
Mine was easily fixed by sanding the inside of the shroud in order not to rub against the metal on the bolt.

The bolts on Tikkas can be hard to open sometimes and the recipee is normally a good clean on the surface that tensions the spring and putting a bit of grease on this surface afterwards.
This makes it somewhat easier and stops the action from grinding metal.

[wizard]

This rifle is actually a good example of how good a rifle can shoot from factory. (with modifications)
The action and barrel is standard, I've only swapped out the attachments 😉

The original varmint stock is not rigid enough to deliver really tight groups, in my opinion, and Robertson normally builds stocks for benchrest shooting so they have a pretty good idea what it takes to create a stock that's got what it takes to deliver.
The stock isn't cheap at $900 with my options and delivery but worth every penny!
Premier 5-25×56 Gen2 XR is an excellent scope for long distance shooting and hunting and MRAD makes it easier for us Europeans to calculate the distance to a target rapidly.
My biggest problem was trigger… I've got a Remmy Jewel trigger that I was going to fit to my T3 but there was a lot of machining involved on the action so I hesitated…
The Jard trigger really saved me here!
The Atlas bipods i mounted are in a class of their own if you ask me and they are great when hunting since they are one-hand operated as well.

I'm really squeesing out the maximum performance with my 175gr Nosler Comp bullets by loading it very hot, the tight groups is a result of all of the above.
We'll see what the 155gr Scenar can perform later this summer when I'll use single base powder from Vihtavuori instead of Norma…

I will swap the barrel next year to a 6XC caliber instead both to save some money on reloading costs and better accuracy…

So, we can build really good rifles on Tikka T3 systems and show the Remington 700 followers that we have accuracy out of the box.
I haven't blue-printed my action, it's just a standard .308 varmint with a new set of clothes!  ;D

Shooting the tight groups is only down to holding the rifle correctly and trigger discipline, and obviously the ability to repeat this…
I'm not yet even close to the precision this rifle can produce with a good shooter behind the trigger but I'm working on it! I only started shooting this discipline a few months ago but I intend to get better 😉

Thanks guys for helping me prove that Tikka T3 was the right choice when building my rifle and you helped me solve the final bit in the puzzle, the trigger!

[wizard]

Would you be willing to do a little torture test? Like put the safety on and hit the butt of the rifle on the ground a few times to see if it releases the firing pin. Then disengage the safety to see if the firing pin releases. See if you can pull the trigger with the saftey engaged. Those are all I have heard complaints about. if you would be willing to do that I would really appreciate it. Thanks

I've both “slammed” the butt on the floor and tried to pull the trigger whilst in safety and this was fully safe.
By looking at the mechanism itself it shows that this will be pretty impossible.

The safety doesn't lock the action so you can empty the chamber without using the safety, that's nice!

All in all I'm very happy with my Jard trigger and since it's so cheap just order one and swap out the horrible original one 😉
I'm using the 14oz model.

It only costs about the same as a descent bottle of single malt Whisky (Scottish that is) so there's no excuse not to buy one!

[wizard]

I'm more than happy with my Jard 14oz trigger I swapped to last week.

No issue with safety although it requires virtually no force to move it… This is good to know if you plan to hunt with a Jard trigger.
On the quality side I can't feel any difference between my new Jard trigger and a friends Jewel trigger.

I hate the original Tikka triggers since they are so heavy to use and this one really changed my rilfe!

[wizard]

Thanks!

No anti-cant level currently installed but I'm looking for one that's easy to see without moving my head.

I've not tried it in a benchrest yet but I've shot a few 20mm 3-shot groups at 300 meters in prone position so it seems to work!

I'm currently shooting with 175gr Nosler Comp, 43.5gr Norma 202, Federal 210, COL 72mm but since the summer's just started the cartridge is getting a “bit” hot but very accurate.
Will try Lapua Scenar 155 gr shortly as well.

I'm still learning and I only shoot one shot per target and not shooting groups by recommendation from my “mentor”.
With my current progress the original barrel will probably not survive until next year  😉